There is a rugged, inaccessible coastline filled with lush scenic valleys on the northern coast of the Big Island. You can explore and hike into this wondrous area via the Waipi’o Valley on one side or Pololu Valley on the other side. Unfortunately, rain washed out the trail, and it no longer connects! During my recent trip to the Big Island, I opted to do the Pololu Valley Hike. Most people do the hike down to the beach and come back up. Although this is lovely, you can further explore the Pololu Valley by continuing to hike to the Honokane Nui Lookout.
The Pololu Valley and this coastline are particularly beautiful for the steep, greenery-covered valley walls and dramatic cliffs that fall into the ocean. The passing clouds threaten rain but also provide dynamic skies in your photos. Let’s get into the hike!
(Updates as of 2023: Camping is prohibited in the Pololu Valley, so I’ve removed it from the post. People were definitely camping there when I hiked it, so I am not sure if it has always been illegal or a recent change or if there is an enforcement problem (maybe all three!). Please do your research and plan respectfully. The State of Hawaii has a website for formal permits to campsites on the Big Island – check it out. ALSO, sometimes people tell me that parking is also not allowed…? I’m not seeing consistent messaging about this, so I’ve left information as is from what I experienced when I visited. Mahalo!)
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Pololu Valley Lookout to Pololu Beach
Be prepared for the parking area to be busy when you arrive! I stopped by twice – once because we were in the area around 3:00 pm and the other to start the hike at 8:30 am. Both times, the parking area was packed. I recommend parking up the street slightly so that it is easy to turn around and leave at the end of your hike. There is a phenomenal view from the parking area, which is lovely for those who are not interested in the hike. The trailhead begins at the end of the road.
The trail to Pololu Beach is a steep, dirt path. It is very wide, comforting during the Pandemic to maintain some space between you and other hikers. There are some switchbacks toward the bottom of the hill. I recommend stopping to take a look and photos at the switchbacks as the views are phenomenal. Before you know it, you will have made it to the Pololu Valley floor.
Pololu Valley
At the Pololu Valley floor, you will see a stream with large trees. If you head over to the stream, you will see a beautiful view of the Pololu Valley. I took a couple of timelapse videos and could see the light move around on the valley walls with the clouds. Head out to the rocky beach for a view of the ocean and rugged coastline. The waves here are gnarly, and I wouldn’t recommend swimming here, but it is beautiful to see.
Large pebbles and stones cover the beach, making a satisfying rattling sound when the waves pick them up. However, they are not easy to walk along! I recommend heading inland, and you’ll see a stone-lined walking path. The trees break the wind on the valley floor, so I can see why there were people camping (either for the day or illegally overnight). Although I would have loved to explore more of this scenic valley, I decided to continue on to the Honokane Nui Lookout.
At a Glance:
- Rating: 4 (out of 4) stars, would go again
- Intensity: Hiking Clothes, Hiking Shoes
- Location: Trailhead is at the Pololu Lookout on the Big Island of Hawaii
- Cost: Free
- Restrooms: None!
- Timing: 2 – 4 hours
- Distance: 4.6 miles roundtrip (including the Honokane Nui Lookout)
Highlights:
- The view of these lush valleys and cliffs into the ocean is stunning.
- The Pololu Valley floor is beautiful with a river that goes into the valley
- Only a few people continue to the Honokane Nui Lookout, so this part of the trail is less busy.
Lowlights:
- Insanely popular trail – the parking area was already busy by 8:30 am.
- MUD!! I was slipping and sliding my way to the Honokane Nui Lookout.
- There is often a possibility of rain at any moment.
- It’s one of those hikes where you start with a downhill, so you will need to climb out at the end.
Pololu Beach to Honokane Nui Lookout
Once you pass the stream to the far side of the beach, the trail becomes increasingly wild. It seems like the path is not maintained regularly, so be prepared for it all – steep sections, muddy sections, areas with debris, confusing side trails, etc. Try to respect nature and pack out all trash (as per usual).
The first section is steep as you climb the hillside into lush jungle-like surroundings. The vegetation is so thick that you do not get a view of the ocean. However, as it heads inland, you will get a peek at the Pololu Valley below. The trail snakes inland and back toward the ocean as you make your way across the top of this hillside. I found this area to be relatively flat and dry. After one more switchback inland, you emerge from the trees to see the view at Honokane Nui Lookout.
Honokane Nui Lookout
Try not to get blown away by the incredible views and crazy wind at the Honokane Nui Lookout. It was sprinkling and gusting when I first arrived at the lookout, but luckily the wind did calm down for me to be able to enjoy the view and grab some photos. You can get pictures of the ocean, or even the interior ridges of the valleys are stunning.
It’s a rewarding view that allows you to get away from the crowds that do the Pololu Valley Hike. I had the Honokane Nui Lookout to myself for a good 15 minutes before another couple arrived. After that, there were a number of other people arrived. Take your time at the lookout, and I bet you will have some time alone. It is unclear if the trail continues. I could not tell in person which way it went from the lookout, so if you are planning to go further, you will have to do additional research.
The Return Trip
Once I turned around, the journey back to the trailhead went surprisingly quick. I suppose it is easier to slip and slide your way downhill instead of uphill. It also helped that I knew what to expect. It shocked me to make it back to the Pololu Valley floor without falling. So I guess I do believe in miracles.
After taking more photos with the reflection of the still water, I began the climb up to the trailhead. Almost immediately upon climbing, it began to rain. With clouds swirling overhead for the duration of my hike, it was bound to happen. However, it didn’t last long, and I was almost completely dry by the time I reached the trailhead.
Pololu Valley Hike Recommendations
Since this hike will likely take 3-4 hours, here is what I recommend you bring with you on the Pololu Valley Hike:
- Anticipate crowds
- Download the AllTrails Map, especially if you plan to hike to Honokane Nui Lookout – there is no cell reception once you enter the Pololu Valley.
- Sturdy shoes – I wore tennis shoes, but it would have been helpful to have more grip on the muddy sections on the way to Honokane Nui Lookout. Consider the Salomon Trail Sense trail running shoes, which have amazing grip and flexibility while still looking like a regular shoe. Shop around on REI, Backcountry, or Zappos.
- Day Pack – I used a small 16L backpack from Amazon. Consider the Gregory May 16 or small Osprey pack, each with hip pockets for easier access to small items. These packs would be a more comfortable experience.
- Purple leggings – while I got these years ago, here are a few lilac tights I found as of August 2022: These on Backcountry are under $20, these target ones look adorable, or the reviews of these REI Co-op tights are calling them buttery-soft.
- White top – I was wearing a lightweight top from Free People, like this one or this one.
- My classic Hanna bandana is from REI
- At least 1 liter of water – You cannot go wrong with a handy dandy Nalgene.
- Sunscreen – Anything over SPF 30 🙂
- Snacks!
- Small tripod for photos
Getting to the Trailhead
The trailhead is at the end of a dead-end road and very easy to find! There are parking spots directly next to the trailhead, but I recommend parking a bit further up the street because the pedestrian flow around this area is almost constant. People are starting the hike, ending the hike, and simply coming to admire the views. You’ll save yourself the tight corners and the wait by parking up the street.
Arriving at 8:30 am, I was a bit bummed at how busy it was already. I had stopped by the trailhead the day before at about 3:00 pm, and it was only slightly more active at that time. Some of the cars in the morning may have been from people who were illegally camping in the valley, but overall, it is best to mentally prepare for this popular spot to be busy.
Overall Thoughts: Pololu Valley Hike
I loved the dramatic and rugged landscape of the Pololu Valley Hike. The hike felt remote and accessed some incredible jungle-like flora that I was craving while in Hawaii. Yes, it is a busy trail, which is why I recommend continuing to the Honokane Nui Lookout if you have the fitness to do so. It is still a gorgeous, worthy hike even if you are heading down to the beach. Just don’t expect a quiet reprieve into nature. But if you prepare for the crowds and mud, then I know you will enjoy the hike as much as I did. Check out the other things I did on the Island of Hawai’i:
- Exploring Hawai’i Volcanoes National Park
- Kilauea Iki Crater Hike
- Snorkeling with Manta Rays
- Coffee Tasting at Buddha’s Cup Coffee
- Vegan/Vegetarian Eats on the Big Island
Have you done the Pololu Valley Hike or the Waipi’o Valley Hike? I’d love to hear what you thought or if you enjoyed the Waipi’o valley as much as Pololu. Let me know in the comments!
Happy Travels,
Hanna
