Moderately Adventurous

New Zealand – Exploring the Hooker Valley Track at Aoraki/Mt. Cook

Hanna Ashcraft

The Hooker Valley Track at Aoraki/Mount Cook is one of those hikes that did not disappoint. As the name suggests, the trail leads you up a valley carved by glaciers to a lake at the base of Aoraki/Mount Cook. Yes, Hooker Lake is scenic, with Aoraki/Mount Cook standing proud as the backdrop, but the entire hike there is gorgeous. Along the way, you’ll see Muller Lake, cross three suspension bridges, walk along a boardwalk surrounded by grasses, and get a lovely view of the mountain and glaciers on one side of the valley. Each section of this 6.6-mile trail is well worth the effort!

And, of course, something this gorgeous is a well-known destination. I absolutely recommend getting there early, staying late, or spending the night! We visited Aoraki/Mount Cook National Park as a detour as we went from Wanaka to our next destination. We left Wanaka in the dark and watched the sunrise on the road. Arriving in the area at 8:30 am and starting the hike at 9:00 am was one of the best decisions we made while visiting New Zealand. It was a peaceful (not exactly alone) hike to Hooker Lake, and we were shocked at the throngs of people hiking in as we left. Plan accordingly, and you can also experience the magic of the Hooker Valley Track in New Zealand.

 

Hanna Note:

(We did the hike on February 29, 2020, but I wrote this post in June 2022. Due to the pandemic, I froze and didn’t think it was a good idea to share a hike in a destination that was closed off to most of the world for what ended up being years. Now that New Zealand has opened up again, I am excited to relive the hike. Information is updated with current information as of 2022.)

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Hooker Valley Track

With lakes, boardwalks, suspension bridges, and mountain views, the Hooker Valley Track is incredibly scenic. It’s about 3.3 miles in each direction with rolling hills that will make you break a sweat but are never too terrible. It’s a very easy-to-follow trail, so instead of segments of the track, I wanted to point out the exciting things you’ll see along the way. 

 

The Southern Alps Mountain Range

You can see the peaks and glaciers of the Southern Alps mountain range from Lake Pukaki, the parking area, and during the entire hike on one side of the Hooker Valley. When we arrived, the mountains were partially covered in clouds, slowly dissipating into wispy clouds and revealing the peaks. Gorgeous.

It was crazy to contrast the grassy fields with the snowy glaciers throughout the hike, and I highly recommend getting photos with the Southern Alps in the background. Due to the early morning lighting, some of my favorite photos were with these peaks in the background rather than with Aoraki/Mount Cook. 

 

SUSPENSION BRIDGES

Not long after you start the hike, you’ll come across one of the three suspension bridges on the track. The bridges cross over rushing water melted from the snow and glaciers, making it a frothy light gray color. At each entrance, there is a sign with how many people can be on the bridge at a time. Another reason to get there early in the morning is to not have to worry about the number of people as everyone is headed in the same direction!  

It could be because it was the first one I encountered, but the first bridge felt the longest. There is fencing and railing on either side of the walkway, so it feels secure. I was more concerned that I was going to drop my phone. The suspension bridges are very picturesque to capture. But please be conscientious about getting photos on the bridges when it’s busy – you might cause a traffic jam!

A final note about the suspension bridges: I could feel when other people were walking on the bridge. It’s an odd feeling of the bridge wobbling ever so slightly with the visual of the moving water below, but I never got totally tripped up. Just expect a slight sense of movement if other people are on the bridge with you. 

At a Glance:

  • Rating: 4 (out of 4) stars; I would absolutely go again!
  • Intensity: Hiking clothes that you can sweat in, Hiking Shoes 
  • Location: Aoraki/Mount Cook National Park, South Island, New Zealand
  • Cost: Free!
  • Restrooms: There is a non-flushing toilet in the parking area and also along the trail, probably about 2.5 miles into the trail
  • Timing: 3 -4 hours (the hike took us 4 hours to the lookout)
  • Elevation Gain: 626 ft 
  • Distance: 6.6 miles

Highlights:

  • Incredibly scenic hike from start to finish, with views of glacier-covered mountains and ending at Hooker Lake with an uninterrupted view of Aoraki/Mount Cook. 
  • Getting to cross three suspension bridges and boardwalks with great views.
  • Driving there is also… you guessed it, SCENIC!! You drive along Lake Pukaki, a bright Turquoise color due to the glacial melt and surrounded by rolling hills and Aoraki/Mount Cook in the distance. 

Lowlights:

  • The trail can be incredibly busy; plan accordingly!
  • I wish we would have spent the night at Aoraki/Mount Cook… not a true lowlight, haha.

Muller Lake

There are two short off-shoot trails to viewpoints of Muller Lake. The viewpoints are located before and after the first suspension bridge. Muller Lake is a small, gray lake from the Muller Glacier. It also seems like water flows from Hooker Lake…. Which gives you a clue to what Hooker Lake looks like! The Hooker Valley Track is an out-and-back trail; you’ll pass by this spot again, so you can decide when you take time for a photo op. 

 

Boardwalks 

There is a section (or could be multiple sections) where the trail turns into a boardwalk as you cross over a grassy plain. The boardwalk section is between the second and third suspension bridges and roughly follows the river/stream. You’ve probably seen photos of the boardwalk sections on Instagram or while researching the Hooker Valley Track because it’s so gorgeous! As you continue on the trail, you’ll have the scenic mountain range on your left, the river/stream on your right, and the top of Aoraki/Mount Cook’s peak between the valley walls. 

Personally, I think it’s worth taking your time to get photos on the boardwalks. It will be trickier if you go midday when the trail is the busiest, but if you’re patient, you might just get a break in the people and have fewer people in the shot. Or even if you don’t wait for people to clear, get some pictures in this valley! 

 

Hooker Lake with View of Aoraki/Mount Cook

You’ll reach the third suspension bridge, climb the most prominent hill, and then turn a final corner to see Hooker Lake and Aoraki/Mount Cook before you. You’ve made it! Hooker Lake is not particularly large and has more of an elongated shape. Instead of just sitting at the crowded tables, we walked along the lake toward Aoraki/Mount Cook and then down to the lake shore. We followed an informal rough trail and enjoyed some solitude with sandwiches and snacks. 

Hooker Lake was a dusty grey color when I visited. Looking at photos online, I wonder if there are other times of year (maybe winter?) or times of day in which the lake is more of a blue color. With the uninterrupted view of Aoraki/Mount Cook, it was stunning. 

For those looking for photo ideas and ways to capture Hooker Lake, I think the photos down at the lakeside were the best. Especially ones where the camera is placed at a low angle. Having a prop, like a scarf, also helps create movement. 

Aoraki/Mount Cook

Reaching Hooker Lake, you will have an uninterrupted view of Aoraki/Mount Cook, reaching the 12,316 ft elevation. The peak and face are impressive. Aoraki is often spelled as Aorangi, from the Māori for “cloud piercer.” Cloud Piercer is an appropriate name as it’s the tallest mountain in New Zealand! It was renamed after Captain James Cook in 1851 and first climbed in 1894. Aoraki/Mount Cook is a central figure in the Southern Alps, with 22 peaks above 10,000 ft.

And I’d love to share the legend from NewZealand.com about how Aoraki was formed: “According to Ngāi Tahu legend, Aoraki and his three brothers were the sons of Rakinui, the Sky Father. While on a sea voyage, their canoe overturned on a reef. When the brothers climbed on top of their canoe, the freezing south wind turned them to stone. The canoe became the South Island (Te Waka o Aoraki); Aoraki and his brothers became the peaks of the Southern Alps.”

 

The Return Trip: The Crowds Began… 

After taking our sweet time eating and soaking in the views of Aoraki/Mount Cook at Hooker Lake, we decided to turn back around. I kept my eye open for puddles that would reflect Aoraki/Mount Cook or the surrounding mountains, and I got lucky with one pond! We also started to notice the crowds. It seemed like every half mile back toward the car, the number of people ramped up a notch. This came in handy when we stopped to look at Muller Lake, and a kind gentleman offered to get a photo of my travel partner and me together – he got great shots of us! 

When we got back to the trailhead, it felt like an endless stream of people. Everyone was kind, but it was not the peaceful nature experience we had in the early morning. The parking lot was busy but not crazy. What was crazy was the line of cars parked on the Hooker Valley Road. The lineup nearly reached Aoraki Mount Cook Village.

 

TIPS FOR VISITING AORAKI/MOUNT COOK

Since I found the Hooker Valley Track absolutely stunning, I wanted to review my top tips for visiting. 

  • Get there early or late! I honestly cannot stress it enough that this is a busy hike. Mentally prepare to share the trail and try to avoid late morning. 
  • Consider staying overnight. With the three hotels and one campground available, you can sleep close and easily access the trails. When I go back, I’ll probably stay overnight.
  • Bring snacks, so you’re not rushing. Although you could finish this track quickly between meals, I recommend bringing plenty of snacks or a meal to stay satisfied and not get hangry in a beautiful destination.
  • Slow down and enjoy! Since this hike is gorgeous at every stage, don’t rush through it! Instead, take your time, take plenty of photos, and enjoy the experience. 
  • It’s not a particularly hard hike, but clocking in at over 6 miles, I recommend solid hiking shoes for better grip. 

Accommodations at Aoraki/Mount Cook

Now that I visited Aoraki/Mount Cook and saw the majesty of the Hooker Valley Track, I would love to go back and stay a night or two to allow myself to hike more of the area and see Aoraki/Mount Cook at different times of day/lighting. I bet the sunset would be stunning! There are five hotels and one campground in Aoraki/Mount Cook National Park:

  • The Hermitage Hotel Mount Cook: 4-star hotel, $140 – $275+ USD price range, located in Mount Cook Village
  • Aoraki Mount Cook Alpine Lodge: 3-star hotel, $90 – $200+ USD price range, located in Mount Cook Village
  • Aoraki Court Hotel: 4-star hotel, $120 – $200+ USD price range, located in Mount Cook Village
  • Aoraki Alpine Chalet: Airbnb home that sleeps up to 8 people with three rooms, $177+ USD,, located in Mount Cook Village
  • White Horse Hill Campground: There are 60 tent sites available for $15/night NZD, showers located in the village, the campground is located at the end of Hooker Valley Road (where the Hooker Valley Track starts!), and you can book online in advance.
  • Backcountry Huts: You can stay in a backcountry hut managed by the Department of Conservation (DOC)! Each hut has slightly different “amenities,” but it is typically just a bed, and you bring everything else. You can book in advance online with more huts around than you might have realized!

Sure some of these are on the pricey side, but I thought they would be WAY out of my budget… turns out many of them are in the $200 -$300/night range. Definitely consider staying overnight when planning your trip… and book in advance!

 

Other Hikes at Aoraki/Mount Cook National Park

In addition to the Hooker Valley Track, there are more hikes to discover more of the Aoraki/Mount Cook area! I thought that the following walks looked delightful. If you have done any of these, let me know in the comments because I’d love to hear your experience. 

  • Kea Point Track: 1.7 miles, 285 ft elevation gain, this short hike visits a viewpoint 
  • Tasman Glacier Lake: You can explore the other glacier valley close to Aoraki/Mount Cook. I linked to an example walk to the lakeside.
  • Red Tarns Track: 1.5 miles, 898 ft elevation gain. Although short, it looks like you climb stairs for a gorgeous view of the surrounding area and reflections of Aoraki/Mount Cook in the tarns.
  • Sealy Tarns Track: 3.2 miles, 1,778 ft elevation gain. The Sealy Tarns track seems like a more challenging version of the Red Tarns, with 2,200 stairs.
  • Muller Hut Track: 5.8 miles, 3,405 ft elevation gain and often used as an overnight trek to the hut. You climb the Sealy Tarns stairs, then a rough trail up to the hut. Reviewers of both hikes comment on how amazing the views are.

I found these tracks and a bunch more information about Aoraki/Mount Cook National Park on the Department of Conservation (DOC) website. Check it out for the most up-to-date notices, closures, etc.

Hooker Valley Hike – What to Bring With You

With a distance of 6.6 miles, you’ll be out on the trail for 2-4 hours, so I recommend bringing a small backpack with essentials, such as:

 

Getting to the Trailhead

Unless you are staying at one of the few hotels in Aoraki Mount Cook Village, it will be a drive to get there because there are only small communities surrounding it. We decided to make the trip north from Wanaka, which takes about 2.5 hours through fields and once you get closer, you drive along the scenic and narrow Lake Pukaki. Lake Pukaki is filled with turquoise glacier melt and is a gorgeous drive with the snow-capped peaks in the distance and open hillsides surrounding the lake. Continue along the road into the valley that I can only assume was created by glaciers. The very end of the road is where the Hooker Valley Track begins.

As you come closer to Aoraki/Mount Cook, you’ll first encounter Mount Cook Village, where the hotels are located as well as other buildings. To get to the Hooker Valley Trailhead, continue driving another couple of minutes on the Hooker Valley Road until it reaches a dead end. There is a large parking area with signs to start the Hooker Valley Track. The trailhead also pops up easily on GoogleMaps! 

 

Other things to do on the South Island of New Zealand

There was so much to explore on this first trip to the South Island! I cannot wait to go back to explore more, but in the meantime, here’s what I got up to on this trip:

 

Overall Thoughts: Hooker Valley Track

To lean into the cheese for this hike, I can  definitely say, “the journey is the destination.” The Hookery Valley Track features stunning views throughout the trek and not just at the end! I also loved the suspension bridges and boardwalk as a way to break up the trail… they are also very photogenic! The early morning was a great time to start; however, the lighting was a little tricky with some dark shadows, but the photos still came out great. We were fortunate with the clouds, which parted shortly after arriving.

Next time I’m on the South Island, I’d love to stay the night at Aoraki/Mount Cook and see what the area is like in the evening. I could see myself staying at one of the hotels, camping, or even trekking to one of the backcountry huts. Now that I know how to backpack, there’s a whole world of options open to me.

It was so fun to revisit and write about this hike! Although I made sure to confirm details with my travel partner and current trail reports, the memories came flooding back when I looked back through my photos. I cannot wait to go back to New Zealand and hike more along the South Island – which tracks should I check out next?

Happy Travels,

Hanna

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