Moderately Adventurous

New Zealand – Fjord Exploring on a Milford Sound Cruise

Hanna Ashcraft

After experiencing the magic of the fjords in Norway, I knew I NEEDED to cruise the Milford Sound on the New Zealand South Island. Milford Sound is technically a fjord carved by glaciers and features dramatic mountains, waterfalls, and ocean wildlife. You can experience the magic while on a two-hour cruise, which is precisely what I did… and I loved it! Expected, yes, but the views and waterfalls were truly phenomenal. Due to late storms and roadwork, we could not drive ourselves to the Milford Sound Harbor. Luckily you could still go on a bus tour from Te Anau, which included transportation to the sound and the cruise, which is what I’ll be breaking down in this blog post. 

We opted to go with a millennial-focused company called Go Orange, which had modern decor, multiple viewing levels, and some vegan menu items in their snack area. Unfortunately, Go Orange is permanently closed!! I’m bummed because the ship had so much outdoor space and was vegan/vegetarian-friendly. But alas, the pandemic had far-reaching effects, and Go Orange seemed to be a newer tour operator in the game. Below, I’ll suggest a few alternative tour operators that offer a similar experience.

(Hanna Note: We did the coach and cruise on March 1, 2020, but I wrote this post in July 2022. Due to the pandemic, I froze and didn’t think it was a good idea to share a hike in a destination that was closed off to most of the world for what ended up being years. Now that New Zealand has opened up again, I am excited to relive the hike. Information is updated with current information as of 2022.)

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Choosing a Milford Sound Cruise Operator

Even though Go Orange is permanently closed, other tour operators offer a similar experience, with slight differences in boat size, occupant size, timing, etc. Most provide the cruise-only option, which is budget-friendly, or the coach and cruise option if you need transportation. Here are some tour operators open as of August 1, 2022. Let me know about you’re experience in the comments if you decide to go with any of these since I personally haven’t experienced them: 

 

The Drive to Milford Sound

We met the bus at the designated location by 7:15 am for a 7:35 am departure. Our bus driver was also an excellent commentator, with stories and facts about the sights with a kiwi accent. Or there were periods that he simply had music playing, which was a pleasant combination. We stopped four times during the drive:

  • 1st Stop – Eglinton Valley: The first time we hopped off the bus was to take in a wide open valley carved by a glacier. Since we were visiting during New Zealand’s fall, there was not yet snow on the distant mountains, but it was nice to inhale fresh air.
  • 2nd Stop – Mirror Lakes: It seemed like every bus stopped at the Mirror Lakes. There is a boardwalk with a railing, which takes you down to a pond. The water is so still that it perfectly reflects the Earl Mountains. It’s a neat spot, but calling it a lake is a bit of a stretch due. I also enjoyed the informational plaques but did not enjoy how crowded it was. 
  • 3rd Stop – Bathrooms: Another busy stop, but luckily these restrooms were extensive with many stalls. The only tricky bit was remembering which one was our bus. 
  • 4th Stop – Before Homer Tunnel. Due to the roadwork, we stopped here for at least 20 mins. They let us roam around, and walking down to the creek/river was terrific. After Homer Tunnel, we began our descent to the Milford Sound. While the views were pretty before the tunnel, they became more dramatic afterward, with snow on the mountains and waterfalls coming down. Wowza! This is when I felt particularly bummed that we were on a tour instead of our own car, where we could stop to take in the views. 

At a Glance:

  • Rating: 3 (out of 4) stars; I would go on the cruise again but would love to drive myself to the dock
  • Intensity: Casual clothes, comfortable shoes
  • Location: Near Te Anau, South Island, New Zealand
  • Cost of Transport + Cruise: NZ $141.00/per person with Go Orange, NZ $164/per person with Mitre Peak Cruises, NZ $189/per person with Cruise Milford, or NZ $139/per person with Real NZ 
  • Cruise Only: NZ $69/per person with Mitre Peak Cruises, NZ $105/per person with Cruise Milford, or NZ $89/per person with Real NZ. 
  • Restrooms: There are flushing toilets on the boat
  • Timing: 7 hours, including a 2-hour drive in each direction with stops and a 2-hour cruise

 

Highlights:

  • Incredibly scenic cruise with Mitre Peak, Bowen Falls, Stirling Falls, and the surrounding mountain views.
  • Delightful commentary while on the bus a
  • Our cruise was not even halfway full, which I believe was due to the roadwork — the only people who could go on the tour were those on the tour buses.
  • Even with cloudy/rainy weather, the cruise would be wonderful to see even more waterfalls! You can always warm up inside the boat’s main cabin.

 

Lowlights:

  • Due to roadwork, we couldn’t drive ourselves to the harbor. It would have been nice to control how long we were at the Milford Sound and the stops along the way. 
  • Stops on the bus were crowded – especially at mirror lake and the bathrooms.

Milford Sound Cruise – What You’ll See!

Upon reaching the Milford Sound Harbor, the buses seemed to unload simultaneously. It is a jumbled mess of people heading to the different boats, starkly contrasting to the serene and majestic fjord in the background. You can immediately see the famous Mitre Peak and the dramatic landscapes that make up the fjords. The different boats were clearly labeled, and we could find and get onto our boat without difficulty. While we waited for the boat to depart, we walked around the entire boat to see the design and all the spots to enjoy the cruise/sights. 

Since Go Orange no longer exists, I won’t go into detail about the boat. I will say that I loved that there were a lot of outdoor areas for viewing, including the entire top of the boat, a large area in the back, a small area in the front,  and an exterior walkway with rail surrounding the middle level. Having so many viewing areas is important when choosing a Milford Sound cruise!  

Here’s what to look for while on the Milford Sound Cruise:

 

Mitre Peak 

The imposing Miter Peak (in Maori, it is Rahotu) rises directly out of Milford Sound. At 5,560 ft (1,690 m), Mitre Peak is incredibly mountain-shaped, with snow often at the very top, which makes this a very appropriate time to use the snow-capped mountain emoji! 🏔 However, we did not see it in the snow, so it looked more like the other mountain: ⛰. Most information about the peak is about climbing, which is possible for those who wish to do this significant undertaking. I enjoyed simply taking in the sheer mountain sides and dramatic photos from sea level. 

 

Lady Bowen Falls

Upon leaving the Milford Sound Harbor, you should look back for a fantastic view of Lady Bowen Falls (in Maori, it is Hineteawa), which runs throughout the year. It’s 531 ft (162 m) tall and at a slightly sloping angle, but still impressive! The photos I got at the end of the cruise were a little better than the first ones, but it depends on the lighting. Lady Bowen Falls was named after the fifth governor’s wife, Diamantia Bowen, after visiting Milford Sound in 1871. 

On further research, there used to be a track to Bowen Falls that was closed in 2002 due to an unstable rock face. The waterfall was inaccessible for years until an on-demand boat service operated in 2018 until it was closed in 2020. It has not been opened since, but check the New Zealand Department of Conservation website to confirm the conditions. If it opened, I would have LOVED to do this walk!!

 

Stirling Falls

Okay, I must say, Stirling Falls knocked my socks off. It looks like it is straight out of Jurassic Park or maybe an Elven Kingdom in Middle Earth. It was so gorgeous that it seemed unreal until we cruised right up to the base of the falls and felt the power of the water falling 495 ft (151 m). Stirling Falls is particularly scenic due to the uninterrupted vertical drop of the falls and because it’s situated in a valley with high peaks on either side and behind the falls. You can spot the falls throughout most of the cruise, but getting closer was an absolute highlight. 

Stirling Falls was by Captain Stirling after himself (a very dull story). However, more interestingly, the Maori name for the falls is Waimanu, which means “Cloud on the Water.” I cannot help but think of the mist and thunder created by the waterfall. Another fun fact, the falls were used in the movie “X-Men Origins: Wolverine,” in which Hugh Jackman’s character escapes from the X-Facilities and “jumps” from the waterfall. Don’t worry, I found the clip for you — just head to 2:06 for the jump. While ridiculous, the clip does capture the long drop!

 

Wildlife

While on our cruise, we saw a few seals sunning themselves on rocks. These seals were closer to the ocean than to the Milford Sound Harbor. Beyond seals, keep an eye out for dolphins and possibly whales, which can be spotted in Milford Sound or while out on the Tasman Bay. And I’m so glad I didn’t know there was a chance I could see penguins because we didn’t see any! Milford Sound is home to two species of penguin: Little Blue Penguin and Fiordland Crested Penguin, also called “Tawaki.” However, you would be lucky to spot them as they are notoriously hard to find.

 

Coffee and Treats on Board

While on a scenic fjord cruise, keeping your energy levels high is essential! While I don’t recommend getting a large meal to take your attention away from the sights, having a small snack and warm beverage is a delight. Go Orange had a surprising amount of vegan options, which I was tempted by. I enjoyed a latte while my partner had a Chai Latte, and we shared a chocolate dessert. Not only was it delicious, but the cup also provided an excellent prop for photos with Stirling Falls. 

 

Milford Sound Cruise- What to Bring With You

While we had beautiful sunny weather, the wind on the fjord cruise was still quite chilly. I recommend bringing a few different layers you can switch out while getting to Milford Sound and on the cruise itself. Here are a few items that came in handy on the Milford coach + cruise:

Getting Photos on a Milford Sound Cruise

The lighting was the most challenging part of taking photos while on a Milford Sound cruise. We had sunny weather in early March with no clouds in sight! While pleasant weather, the harsh lighting made it harder to capture things clearly (like Stirling Falls from a distance). However, I found it to be a fun challenge and loved the photos I got of the experience. Here are some tips:

  • Keep in mind that on the Milford Cruise, you will go out to the Tasman Sea and back again in a clockwise manner, so you will be passing some of the same sights but on either side of the fjord. So if you don’t capture Bowen Falls when you leave the Milford Harbor, you can catch it again as you return. And the lighting may be different at that time.
  • From my previous cruising experience in Norway (I went on two cruises — one from Flam and one from Bergen). I got great photos and saw more when moving around the boat rather than staying in one place. Explore all areas on the exterior and interior of the boat for intriguing angles.
  • Utilize features of the boat for photos – different decks, railings, windows, and interior design to get a unique capture of the experience.
  • Fjord cruises are windy, so they can get chilly – bring layers! Also, for clothes, I like something a little flowy for movement, but pants for warmth. If you have long hair, expect it to be windblown by the end of the cruise!
  • If you get a snack or a warm beverage, utilize it as a prop to get photos in the background. Some of my moody photos are from taking a photo inside while having a snack and looking out.

 

The Return Drive to Te Anau

After coming into the harbor, we returned to the bus. Again, I wish I had more time to do other activities from the Milford Harbor – like hiking or kayaking – but as part of the tour, it was time to return home. In a section below, I’ll discuss other things you can do in Milford Sound. I don’t recall making any stops on the return trip, so it went much faster. Most people snoozed, and the commentary from the bus driver was minimal. In a way, it was great to get back in the afternoon because I could hop onto a sightseeing helicopter tour with Southern Lakes Helicopter within a couple of hours — check out the blog post about my experience. (I will link to it as soon as it is published).

Other Activities at Milford Sound

While the Milford Cruise is an absolute *must-do* activity, there are other ways to explore the beautiful fjord landscape, such as:  

  • Kayaking! Yes, you can kayak in the fjords. Some tour operators like Cruise Milford and Southern Discoveries offer cruise and kayak combos (super cool!). Others focus entirely on kayaking, like Rosco’s Milford Kayaks. You would want to get an extra early start because it is non-stop once the cruises start. Also, just kayaking over to the base of Lady Bowen Falls sounds fantastic!

 

 

  • Flight-Seeing! You could consider seeing it from the air via a small plane or helicopter to get a completely different perspective of Milford Sound. I did a helicopter ride over Te Anau and was blown away by the spectacular views (blog post coming soon!). Take a look at the various options on Air Milford or Milford Flights. You could combine flying and cruising.

 

Doubtful Sound, An Introduction

Guess what?! Milford Sound isn’t the only fjord on the South Island of New Zealand that you can visit. Doubtful Sound is the other main option, which is three times as big as Milford but so much quieter. It’s known as the ‘Sound of Silence’ because it’s not easily accessible, AND there isn’t a landing strip. To get here, you must take a boat across Lake Manapouri, then a coach across the Wilmot Pass, and finally arrive at Doubtful Sound. Upon arriving and taking a cruise through the waters, you may be struck by the silence. Early Māori named the fjord “Patea,” meaning ‘place of silence.’ I can imagine the peaceful feeling of seeing the tall mountains with only the sound of waterfalls and birdsong. 

The English name comes from when Captain James Cook first saw the fjord’s exterior. From the sea, most of the fjord is not visible, so he determined that if they ventured inside, he was doubtful they would be able to sail back out due to the prevailing westerly winds. He named it ‘Doubtful Harbor’ and didn’t dare enter that day. 

Now, there are a couple of different ways to experience Doubtful Sound, each of which takes longer (due to the lack of accessibility) and are generally more expensive (due to the lack of accessibility) than Milford Sound. There are day trips, but I would be curious to try out an overnight option to have more time in the fjord.

Positives and Negatives of having to do the Coach + Cruise

As I mentioned before, due to recent storms (in March 2020), the roads were not yet fully opened to traffic. Instead, the government allowed tour buses to drive the entire distance, not personal cars. While it wasn’t my first choice to go on a tour bus, I was happy to be able to see the Milford Sound. This tour-bus-only availability made for an interesting series of positives and negatives that I wanted to discuss: 

Positives

  • Obviously, I was stoked to be able to see the Milford Sound. 
  • We didn’t have to worry about logistics, like getting to the boat on time. Instead, we simply enjoyed the experience. 
  • Due to the road being closed to personal cars, our boat only had people on the buses, so it was less than half full! Wow!
  • I wouldn’t change a thing about the cruise portion of the tour – it was great.

What I Would Change

  • Not being able to control where to stop while on the scenic road to Milford Sound. I might have liked to go for a hike or stop for a photo after the Homer Tunnel. And we also couldn’t control when we started the drive.
  • I didn’t really enjoy the Mirror Lakes stop, where everyone was corralled along the same path. It was simply too crowded.
  • No ability to add other Milford Sound activities, like kayaking or hiking. It would have been nice to walk away from the crowded harbor and take in the views. 

 

Other things to do on the South Island of New Zealand

There was so much to explore on this first trip to the South Island! I cannot wait to go back to explore more, but in the meantime, here’s what I got up to on this trip:

 

Overall Thoughts: Milford Sound Cruise

Milford Sound did not disappoint! It had a lot to live up to after seeing the fjords of Norway. But the combination of Mitre Peak, Bowen Falls, and Stirling Falls satisfied my desire to see amazing things. While I didn’t love having to go on a tour bus, I did love that our boat was less than half full because of it. The modern decor and vegan/vegetarian-friendly options made me enjoy being inside and utilizing the snacks/decor for some moody shots. Overall, I would say that if you are in Te Anau, you absolutely MUST do a fjord cruise. You can see many mind-blowing things while relaxing on board a well-run ship.

Next time I’m on the South Island, I’d love to go hiking in Fiordland National Park – particularly some of the tracks from Milford Road. I feel I would also love making an overnight trip on Doubtful Sound and kayaking in either fjord. I could honestly spend a few weeks in the area because fjords are my favorite landscapes, with an incredible mix of land and water opportunities.

Where have you taken a scenic cruise? This was such a fun and different way to experience the fjords that I cannot wait to take more scenic cruises in the future. Let me know in the comments below where you recommend cruising!

Happy Travels,

Hanna

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