My friend and I wanted to backpack in Rainier National Park but didn’t have any permits. Instead, we utilized the first-come, first-served campground and opted for walk-up permits for a memorable weekend. The gamble led us to backpacking to Glacier Basin after doing the Fremont Lookout Sunrise Hike. It was a great overnight with brief (but fantastic) views of Mount Rainier during the hike up to the camp. Unfortunately, the camp itself only has the very top of Rainier visible from some spots. Of course, there is the alpine glory of the national park, a sizeable glacier-fed stream bed, and pit toilets. Glacier Basin was not as scenic as some of my other backpacking trips. However, it was a perfect 3.1 miles (which still felt tough after doing 5.8 miles to the Fremont Lookout) and a lovely place to end up backpacking in Rainier National Park.
In a separate post, I will do a deep dive into what it was like to get a walk-up permit in a National Park and the experience we had at the first-come, first-served campground! It will be great to provide a contrast to the detailed, multi-month planning that I’ve done for my other backpacking trips. Here are those posts:
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Glacier Basin Hike
From the parking lot in the White River Campground, it is a short walk to the Glacier Basin trailhead, where it starts off flat through the pine trees. About a half-mile into the trail, there is the trail intersection to Emmons Moraine Lake. Although a gorgeous teal-blue color, we opted not to visit the lake due to having already done a sunrise hike that morning. The incline slowly but steadily ramps up after the turnoff to the lake. If you decide to take on this trail, mentally prepare yourself for it never to get easier! It’s a good climb, but luckily it is only 3 miles in length. Take plenty of breaks and slow-motion videos of cute little streams you pass that feature happy moss and chilly water.
Pay attention to the switchback that comes super close to the larger main stream. It is during this section of the trail that has the best views of Mount Rainier. I took photos of the wildflowers with Mount Rainier in the background and got shots of us on the trail. There is another trail intersection to make your backpacking trek into a loop by connecting the Burroughs. Having been to the Fremont Lookout, I could see that the Burroughs trail would be phenomenal. However, from Glacier Basin, it would be a haul to get back up to the hill ridge. If you decide to make it a loop, prepare for the elevation gain!!
After a couple of particularly steep sections of trail, you will eventually come across the bathroom sign. Once you’ve made it to this sign, you’ve made it to camp. There is a sign for the Glacier Basin camp, but I thought it was funny that there was a sign to the bathroom first.
At a Glance:
- Rating: 2.5 (out of 4) stars, would go again, but would love to see other places in Rainier National Park first
- Intensity: Hiking boots or athletic shoes, athletic wear
- Location: Trailhead is at the Sunrise area, which had a massive parking lot that somehow gets stacked
- Cost: $55 per car, or opt for the National Parks Annual Pass for $80
- Restrooms: There are restrooms with flushing toilets in the White River Campground
- Timing: 2 – 4 hours
- Distance: 6.2 miles
- Elevation Gain: about 2,194 ft
Highlights:
- Great little backpacking destination in Rainier National Park
- Streams, wildflowers, and views on Rainier during the hike up to the camp
- Glacier-fed stream to explore
- Opportunity to make it a loop through the Burroughs or add on the Emmons Moraine Lake
Lowlights:
- View of Mount Rainier is obscured at the camp
Camping at Glacier Basin with the Resident Marmot
There are five regular campsites and one group campsite at Glacier Basin. They are close together, and our permit allowed us to pick any one, except for the group site. We arrived at 1:45 pm, and at this time, two of the spots were taken. We chose the campsite next to the group, which felt a little more secluded. Each camp had a little log for a table and a couple of sitting rocks or logs. There was two trashcans with special bear-proof lids that were chain-linked to the tree for food storage. It was great to not have to hang our food!
As I’ve experienced in other National Parks, the restrooms are a good long walk from the campground. It is a little nicer than the wooden pit toilets, but only slightly nicer. There is a privacy fence, which you can see over and yell at anyone coming your way! Bring your own toilet paper! I was bummed to see that someone had thrown away a plastic water bottle in the toilet, even though there were signs EVERYWHERE only to put toilet paper inside. Pack it out, people!!
For the water source, we walked down to the stream, which was roaring. We found a quite off-shoot of the stream to cool/wash our feet and soak up the sun. The little trail to the rocky stream goes directly over the home of a Marmot! He did not seem happy to see us and watched our comings and goings each time we passed.
Afternoon, Dinner, and Sunrise at Glacier Basin
There is a meadow just past camp where many day hikers end up turning around, filtering water, or having a snack. In the afternoon, we saw other backpackers playing a game where you toss items in the meadow. It is an open space to get some extra sun and enjoy the alpine beauty. Unfortunately, there is not a good view of Mount Rainier – just the very top. Instead, it is obscured by the closer hill. After waking up at 3:30 am for sunrise and doing double-hikes, we were pretty mellow this evening. At the end of August, the weather was delightful, albeit a bit chilly in the shade. We found a sunny spot in one of the other empty campsites to eat dinner, then got ready for bed. Although we wanted to play cards, we ended up chatting and falling asleep before it was fully dark. Whoops.
With permits booked far in advance, I wondered if the sites would fill up on a Saturday night. Around sunset, another group came and snagged the last two campsites, and I got my answer. The group sounded tired and grumpy, which I definitely would be coming in that late! The formal group site was taken by two couples, one of which had a baby. Surprisingly, I never once heard the baby, which is beyond impressive. This trip must not be their first time!
My bladder woke me up just before sunrise and I got to see the sun peek over the mountain range on my return trip from the bathroom. We had gotten a full 11 hours of sleep and I was feeling REFRESHED! We brought our coffee-making supplies out to the meadow for a lovely breakfast and photoshoot. It was so peaceful – I love mornings out in nature.
The Return Trip
After finishing coffee and breakfast in the meadow, we leisurely got ready, packed our bags, and headed back to the trailhead. With a FULL night’s sleep, lighter packs, and an almost entirely downhill trail, we practically skipped back. It truly is so much faster and enjoyable to hike on refreshed legs and a downhill trail. Before I knew it, we passed the trail turnoff to the Burroughs, the epic view of Rainier, and the turnoff to Emmons Moraine Lake. We finished the trail at 11:15 am and headed back to Seattle.
During my visit, there was a wildfire in the nearby mountains. The smoke did not impact us on the first two days, but on this third day out, I noticed a bit of haze surrounding Mount Rainier. I feel fortunate that the smoke was not worse. Unfortunately, wildfires are something we will all need to consider when planning summer travel in the west.
Glacier Basin Backpacking Recommendations
The Glacier Basin trail is excellent for any level of backpacking. It would be a good challenge for beginners with the steep sections, but overall not very far in distance. Although this is not a complete list, here are some basic recommendations/reminders for an overnight trip to Glacier Basin:
- Download a map or the Alltrails Map in advance.
- Bear bag or canister – For this trip, my friend and I shared a large bear canister.
- Tent – Nemo Hornet 2p or the super light Zpacks Tents.
- Sleeping bag – Therm-a-Rest Parsec 20 for down, Marmot Eco 20 for eco-fill, or maybe you only need a quilt.
- Backpack – Deuter or Osprey both have good options.
- Sleeping pad – Therm-A-Rest Lite for a blow-up version or a Therm-A-Rest foam pad to save your breath.
- Water filter – we used the Sawyer water filters, but I’m totally mesmerized by the Platypus gravity flow filter.
- Hiking boots – I love my Keens (this sounds like an ad for Calvin Klien underwear).
- Hiking poles – I don’t have an opinion on hiking poles yet, but if you’re looking for reasonably priced ones, check the REI Co-op.
- Headlamp – Black Diamond is a solid choice.
- Stove – Jetboils are convenient but bulky… consider a pocket stove.
- Coffee – You can use these handy pop-up pour-over packs or bring coffee grounds and a filter.
- Mug – I don’t trust plastic with boiling water, so here is something cheap, and here is something cute.
- Meals and snacks! My favorite meals right now are the Backpacker’s Pantry Thai Veggie and Mushroom Stroganoff!
Getting to Glacier Basin Trailhead
The Glacier Basin Trailhead is located at the back of the White River Campground. As you drive through the campground, head straight on the main road. On the left, there will be a large parking area. It is best to park in this lot for the Glacier Basin Trail. There are bathrooms right next to the parking lot, or you will also pass by another restroom on your way to the trailhead.
Utilize Google or Apple maps to route to the Glacier Basin Trailhead or White River Campground. Do this while you’re still on the major freeways because my service was spotty as we reached the actual turnoff.
Overall Thoughts: Backpacking to Glacier Basin in Rainier National Park
For getting a last-minute backcountry permit, the Glacier Basin hike and camping area were great. It allowed us to explore the Sunrise area more thoroughly and spend time in the beautiful alpine nature of Rainier National Park. Would having a view of Rainier be a little better? Probably. However, because we paired this experience with our sunrise hike to the Fremont Lookout, I feel very satisfied with our trip. It was a great lesson in making general plans and allowing for flexibility in with weather and where we hike/backpack/camp. And I’m grateful that I have the confidence and the gear to know what would be doable. All-in-all I count this as a success!
We spent the weekend in Rainier National Park, so I wrote a couple of other posts about what we did. Check them out below:
- Fremont Lookout Sunrise Hike
- Tips for Getting a Walk-Up Permit or First-Come, First-Served Campground
- Iconic Seattle Sunset Sail right from Downtown
- Or check out all of my Washington Posts
The next area I would like to explore in Rainier National Park is the southern Paradise region. Do you know of any great hikes or backpacking in the area? If so, let me know in the comments so that I can check it out.
Happy Travels,
Hanna
