There’s no doubt that Grand Teton National Park is gorgeous, but heading straight into the backcountry to explore multiple mini climate zones was mind-blowing. Also, the alpine peaks were striking, the views were dizzying, the marmots were chunky and happy, and the wildflowers were voluminous. Oh, to be a chunky marmot that prances through the wildflowers on the Death Canyon Shelf! So, I made a wonderful 30-mile backpacking loop in Grand Teton National Park on July 17 – 19, 2021, that covered a ton of ground with wildflowers EVERYWHERE. Wildflowers covered the hillsides and brushed against my calves as I walked.
I’ll mention at least three or four times in this post alone – this loop was very strenuous. Also, when talking with the ranger, his first reaction was concern. He was particularly worried about the 4-mile incline from the Death Canyon Trail to Static Peak Divide. To even get to this conjunction, it is a good 2 miles of gentle incline. So, if you take on this loop, be prepared for a 6-mile stretch of elevation gain with a backpack. No matter how you slice it, there is an incline to get into the backcountry of Grand Teton. However, the static peak divide is one of the more challenging ways to get into the backcountry – take a look around for more accessible trails and loops if this sounds too gnarly. Although challenging, the trail is gorgeous with insane views; I’m giving you fair warning!
So, I created a blog post about planning a backpacking trip from scratch, using this hike as an example. Check it out here.
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Introduction to the Backpacking Loop in Grand Teton
Backpacking permits for Grand Teton National Park become available in early January! Luckily I noticed this in mid-January, and we were able to research and plan a loop by late January. By late January, the popular areas like the Cascade/Paintbrush areas were already gone. Both my travel partner and I preferred to make a loop to see more things. We decided to make a loop that went up and over Static Peak Divide to Alaska Basin, then went across the Death Canyon Shelf to Marion Lake and over to Mt. Hut area, then climbed Mt. Hut Divide to loop back to the Death Canyon Trailhead.
We planned our backpacking loop in Grand Teton this using the National Park backcountry camping planner. I utilized this planner, as well as two different Alltrails Maps to get a better idea of exactly where we were on the trail at any given time:
Without further ado, let’s get into the trail!
Day 1: Death Canyon Trailhead to the Static Peak Divide
Our backpacking loop begins and ends at the Death Canyon Trailhead. There is about a mile of unpaved road before you get to the trailhead with parking along the way if you are concerned about your vehicle making it through all of the potholes. There are no bear boxes at the trailhead, but there is a lovely stream and pit toilet to set you up for success. The Death Canyon Trailhead was fairly busy with many day-trippers heading to Phelps lake.
The very first segment of the trail is a gentle incline to a viewpoint of Phelps Lake. Take a moment at the viewpoint before heading down a series of switchbacks. These switchbacks will be brutal on the way back, but this initial descent is a breeze. Unfortunately, you will not get close to Phelps Lake – instead, continue on and into Death Canyon. This climb is steeper than your first incline but not as steep as the next section. It’s like a progressive warm-up to the major climb! The climb to the Death Canyon Barn is also incredibly picturesque as you follow the stream up and into the canyon.
There is a trail juncture at the Death Canyon Barn, built in 1935 as a working barn and ranger patrol. Most people will continue into Death Canyon, and only the crazy people head to Alaska Basin (like my travel partner and me) or up to Static Peak. After filtering water and having a snack at the barn, we were ready to tackle the climb. And whew, the ranger was not lying; it is an UNINTERRUPTED climb. It wasn’t that it was insanely steep, but that it was unrelenting. Luckily the views are stunning. You can measure your progress as you become eye-level with the peaks surrounding you.
Backpacking Loop in Grand Teton At a Glance:
- Rating: 4 (out of 4) stars; this was an incredible loop but very strenuous. There are easier loops to do, so I would recommend this loop only for experienced backpackers
- Intensity: Backpacking gear, hiking shoes, athletic clothes, plenty of water and food
- Location: Grand Teton National Park, Death Canyon Trailhead
- Cost:
- Restrooms: Outhouse at the trailhead, none otherwise!
- Distance: 30+ miles round trip
- Elevation Gain:
Highlights:
- Getting to explore the backcountry of Grand Teton National Park
- Wildflowers galore!
- The trail meandered in ways I would never be able to predict, and I saw more than I would have thought possible!
- Getting to see the Static Peak Divide, Alaska Basin Meadows, Death Canyon Shelf, and Marion Lake in one go
Lowlights:
- This is a strenuous backpacking loop in Grand Teton, with multiple divides to go over.
- Peak wildflowers means peak mosquitos and flies. It was difficult to enjoy being outside with the mozzy’s (mosquitos) swarming in the Alaska Basin and the biting flies at Marion Lake and Open Canyon.
- We lucked out with the wildfires this summer. There was a bit of haze, but overall the smoke was minimal when we made our backpacking loop.
Static Peak Divide to Alaska Basin
As you get closer to the divide, you will reach the top of the ridge and be able to look down into the Teton Valley below. There is a final brutal section of switchbacks. I like to keep a consistent pace and not stop during switchbacks, but my tired legs were no match for this last ascent. There were an unusual amount of butterflies that encouraged me to continue after each mini-break. What revitalized me was the view from the Static Peak Divide sign, which was simply spectacular.
The spectacular views did not stop at the Static Peak Divide! Upon reaching the divide, the next section descends into a rocky basin, and the trail comes close to three peaks. During this section, I felt like I was IN the Tetons, not just hiking in the distance around them. We had to walk across about four or five small stretches of snow, but otherwise, this area was barren.
Coming from the barren landscape made the Alaska Basin even more exciting! Looking at the wilderness planner, it seems like the mountain range completely drops off after the Static Peak Divide – this is not the case!! The Alaska Basin is an elevated plateau filled with streams that provide water for greenery and wildflowers galore. The top part of the basin has more patchy foliage and flowers, but following the trail, we walked through patches of red, blue, or pink wildflowers. It was a good two miles before reaching the lakes of the Alaska Basin and deciding where to camp.
Camping in Alaska Basin
The Alaska Basin is not technically in Grand Teton National Park, so you do not formally need a permit for this area, and there are no formal camping spots. However, there are still best practices to follow to ensure your safety and minimal land impact! It’s also lovely and worth a visit. All the water from the streams and three lakes creates the perfect environment for mosquitos, and they were plentiful. I remember stopping for less than 30 seconds to take a photo of one of the lakes and was immediately bit by a mosquito near my elbow. Oi!
Hiking from 7:30 am, we got to camp by about 2:30 or 3:00 pm – a solid 2 mph pace, which I felt was spectacular for our elevation gain! We ended up choosing a camping area that was not immediately next to but nearby the lowest little lake on flat rocks. Getting to camp in the afternoon gave us plenty of time to set up camp, relax, and clean up before we even made dinner. During our dinner preparations, we had an intelligent marmot who squeaked at us for scraps. The marmot screeched at us throughout our meal, then promptly disappeared when we finished dinner and moved onto the next camp over.
Remember, leave no trace principles when camping, even when not camping in National Parks. In addition to the leave no trace, we also spoke with the ranger about preparing for marmots and grizzlies, so a couple of extra things we did included:
- Cooking and placing our bear canister far away from our tents
- Hanging anything that we sweat into – boots, backpack, and even hiking poles! This is mainly for the marmots, who love the salt and will nibble at anything that has salt on it.
Day 2: Alaska Basin and Death Canyon Shelf
Sunset in the Alaska Basic was charming, and because we were in bed so early, we opted to get an early morning start. Although we had done most of our climbing the day before, we still needed to climb out of the Alaska Basin. The climb included a bit of switchbacks and a view over the entire Alaska Basin. Going south toward the Death Canyon Shelf, there were a couple of grassy hills where we saw a small herd of deer.
The Death Canyon Shelf is aptly named – it is a wide flat-ish strip of land elevated over the Death Canyon. We had seen the shelf from a distance when climbing the Static Peak Divide, but what I didn’t expect was the blooming wildflowers on the trail! I don’t have any comparison for Grand Teton National Park, but I feel like we accidentally stumbled upon peak wildflower week. Not something we could have predicted when getting the permits back in January, but I tried to soak it up as much as possible. Seriously gorgeous to have so many wildflowers in the foreground and the view of Death Canyon in the background.
The other notable thing we discovered about the Death Canyon Shelf was as we go further away from the Alaska Basin, we got a better view of Grand Teton, the mountain. I tried to capture the moments when there were wildflowers in the foreground and Grand Teton in the distance… but none of the photos could quite capture the experience.
Death Canyon Shelf to Marion Lake
The Death Canyon Valley rises and the shelf slowly dissipates into the hillside. Instead of going down into the canyon, we continued over dry, rolling hills until we reached Lake Marion. The rolling hills section was a stark contrast to the lush wildflowers in Alaska Basin and the Death Canyon Shelf. Instead, the area had dried up streams with vegetation that hugged the ground. The rolling hills seemed to go on forever, but it was a welcome change compared to the endless climb on the first day. On each hillcrest, I would look back and see Grand Teton, in all its glory, get further away.
I mistakenly thought we would stumble upon Lake Marion. Instead,we made a steep descent, and it finally became visible over the edge of a hill. As we got closer, the wildflowers returned with a vengeance and framed the dark turquoise waters. Lake Marion is not particularly large but is a pristine blue lake that reflects the cliffside on the far side. I had a hard time capturing it due to how reflective it was! We had a lengthy lunch at Lake Marion, but the biting flies (no mosquitos) eventually bothered us enough to move along.
To get over to the Mt. Hut camping zone, we needed to descend into Granite Canyon. The descent included some steep switchbacks through vegetation that mellowed out into a slight downhill slope. This gradual descent featured some gorgeous meadows with, you guessed it, more wildflowers. You’ll reach a sign to either continue in the valley or head uphill to the Mt. Hut Divide.
Day 3: Mt. Hut Divide back to Death Canyon Trailhead
Luckily, the descent through Open Canyon does not have any rock sections. Instead, the trail meanders back and forth on what feels like endless switchbacks through pine trees with soft dirt. It felt like I was flying downhill. After a section of switchbacks, the trail heads toward the canyon’s opening. Although you can hear and see the stream, you will not cross it for quite a while! It’s deceiving in this way!
Eventually, it does cross the stream, where we stopped to cool off and filter more water. The following section is even more dry and hot, so it wouldn’t be a bad idea to dunk a bandana or hat on a hot day. After the stream, there is a ridge between you and Phelps Lake. From our campground to the Phelps Lake junction, we had seen a total of 3 people, so it was a shock to encounter large groups making the trail that circles Phelps Lake.
Although tempting, we did not take a dip at Phelps Lake as the trail doesn’t quite come close. Instead, we faced our final climb to the Phelps Lake viewpoint. With tons of people heading to the lake as a fun day activity, the final climb was busy and intensely hot. I decided to not stop and face the challenge all at once. With the sun barreling down, little wind, and tired legs, I could feel the sweat drip down my back and off of my forearms. It was a hot one, but we made it and also made it back to the car in one piece. That stream I mentioned at the beginning? I have never been so grateful to dunk my arms into freezing water and lower my body temp. What a loop!
Getting to the Trailhead
We used the Death Canyon Trailhead to start and end our trek. The trailhead is at the end of a one-mile dirt road, but there are parking spots along the way. The Death Canyon Trailhead is clearly labeled on all national park maps and easy to search for on Google Maps.
Alternative Loops in this Area
As you can tell, this giant backpacking loop in Grand Teton National Park is not for the faint of heart. I loved that I got to see SO MUCH of the Grand Teton backcountry, but I wouldn’t recommend it to everyone due to the sheer amount of climbing required. If this sounds like too much (it pushed me!), I wanted to suggest a couple of alternative loops to check out:
- The Death Canyon Loop
- Paintbrush Cascade Loop
- Staying at one of the lakeside campgrounds or on an island in Jackson Lake
- Surprise Lake also looks gorgeous
Grand Teton Backpacking Recommendations
Whew, this was a good-sized loop that I would NOT recommend to beginner backpackers. Instead, keep this loop in your back pocket for future hikes. In the meantime, work on getting and upgrading gear to be as light and compact as possible. The process of reviewing and upgrading my gear has been an ongoing evolution. Here are some basic recommendations to get you started:
- Download a map or the Alltrails Map in advance
- Bear bag or canister – For this trip, my friend and I shared a large bear canister.
- Tent – Nemo Hornet 2p or the super light Zpacks Tents.
- Sleeping bag – Therm-a-Rest Parsec 20 for down, Marmot Eco 20 for eco-fill, or maybe you only need a quilt.
- Backpack – Deuter or Osprey both have good options.
- Sleeping pad – Therm-A-Rest Lite for a blow-up version or a Therm-A-Rest foam pad to save your breath.
- Water filter – we used the Sawyer water filters, but I’m totally mesmerized by the Platypus gravity flow filter.
- Hiking boots – I love my Keens (this sounds like an ad for Calvin Klien underwear).
- Hiking poles – I don’t have an opinion on hiking poles yet, but if you’re looking for reasonably priced ones, check the REI Co-op.
- Headlamp – Black Diamond is a solid choice.
- Stove – Jetboils are convenient but bulky… consider a pocket stove.
- Coffee – You can use these handy pop-up pour-over packs or bring coffee grounds and a filter.
- Mug – I don’t trust plastic with boiling water, so here is something cheap, and here is something cute.
- Meals and snacks! My favorite meals right now are the Backpacker’s Pantry Thai Veggie and Mushroom Stroganoff!
Overall Thoughts: Backpacking Loop in Grand Teton National Park
Wow, wow, wow, what a wonderful introduction to the Grand Teton backcountry and Grand Teton National Park in general. This was my first time in Grand Teton, and now I cannot wait to go back and do some of the normal things – visit the famous barn, see the sunrise over the lakes, etc. However, in the meantime, I feel extremely fortunate to have gotten to experience peak or near-peak wildflowers while doing this backpacking loop in Grand Teton National Park! We covered 30-miles in 3 days and I now feel I have a good grasp of the geography of the southern section of the National park. Each day was a wild ride of exploration and new things to discover around each corner or on top of the next climb. Yes, it pushed me a bit, but it was absolutely worthwhile.
If you’re wondering how I planning an out-of-state backpacking trip, I wrote an entire blog post about it! Check it out here. (will link as soon as it’s posted!)
I cannot wait to explore more of Grand Teton National Park, the Winds Mountain Range, and Yellowstone National Park. Do you have a favorite hike or backpacking route in this area? I’d love to hear about it. Let me know in the comments!
Happy Travels,
Hanna
