California – Mt. Whitney Day Hike
Mt. Whitney is the highest peak in the contiguous US and stands at 14,505 feet. With that elevation, it is also one of the coveted 14ers in California. There are two camps on the mountain, but we decided to do the hike in one day. The hike is 22 miles, round trip with around 6,500 elevation gain. It was a challenging hike, but one of the most rewarding and beautiful hikes I’ve done. In previous posts, I covered my training schedule and gear list. In this post, I will breakdown the different sections of how I experienced the mountain as a relatively novice hiker. If you want a step-by-step view of what the trail looks like, I recommend this post by the Hiking Guy.
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Before Heading to Mt. Whitney Day Hike
Before you decide to hike Mt. Whitney, take a look at the permitting process. You have to apply to the lottery during a specific time-frame with the number of people in your party and whether you are going to do the day hike or camp on the trail. Choose as many dates as possible, because there is a good chance you may not get your first choice. I chose dates in the late summer/early fall because the snow-pack was large in 2017 and I received a permit for August 26. Check out this site for information on when to apply, costs, and etc.
Next it’s important to design and stick to a training schedule. I wrote about how we went from being able to hike 10 miles in a day to 22 miles in this post. While you’re training, don’t forget to figure out your housing situation before you go. We rented an Airbnb in Lone Pine with full kitchen. It was delightful to be able to come “home” each night to cook a full meal. There are not a ton of restaurant options in Lone Pine.
Consider doing a few day-hikes before the permit date. We did a hike along the Cotton Lakes trail. This trail was not challenging, but at a high elevation. Then the day before the hike, we made our way up to Lone Pine Lake. The Lone Pine Lake Hike takes you on the first 3 miles of the Mt. Whitney Trail. I recommend doing this hike before the big day, so you can get a feel for the incline and see the beginning of the trail.
At a Glance:
- Rating: 4 (out of 4) stars, would absolutely do it again.
- Location: Eastern side of the Sierra Nevada Mountain range, nearest town is Lone Pine.
- Cost: $10 to enter the lottery, $15/per person for the permit.
- Restrooms: At the trailhead, then nature pee, must pack out solids.
- Duration: 22 miles round-trip (normally takes people 13 – 15 hours, it took us 16.5).
Highlights:
- Peak bagging rights: highest peak in the contiguous US and another 14’er.
- Incredible views throughout the hike, but especially at the peak. Stunning wilderness.
- Comradery on the trail.
- Sense of accomplishment.
Lowlights:
- Can be busy on the trail with areas where there is nowhere to pee.
Start Time 3:15 am – Mt. Whitney Day Hike Begins
My friends and I agreed to meet at 3:00 am with an exact departure time of 3:15 am. We chose to start at 3:15 am to give ourselves 9 – 10 hours to get to the peak and off the top. Afternoon thunderstorms are dangerous while hiking in late summer/early fall above the treeline. Our permit was right in this window. Do research to check the weather before you hike.
At the trail head, be sure to take pictures with the sign and entry gate. Also, don’t forget to weigh your pack before the day begins. Take a deep breath at the trail head before getting started. We were so loopy when we finished that I am glad we appreciated the trail head at the beginning of the hike.
TRAILHEAD TO CAMP #1 (OUTPOST CAMP)
Although early, we were not alone on the trail. As you start, you will see the dotted lights of the headlamps zig zag up the switchbacks. Although pitch-black, this part of the trail was stunning. You could see so many stars and the town of Lone Pine in the distance. With excitement levels high, all the groups jostle past each other as you stop to catch your breath or get water.
The trail is easy to follow, even in the dark. If you do Lone Pine Lake the day before, like we did, it will be especially familiar. You will not pass close by to Lone Pine Lake (not that you could see it all that well in the dark), but instead climb above it. There is a sandy area, then more switchbacks, then a downhill into a wet meadow. Past the meadow is Camp #1 and you will know you have made it 3.8 miles and to 10,400 feet.
CAMP #1 (OUTPOST CAMP) TO CAMP #2 (TRAIL CAMP)
It began to get light between the two camps and above Mirror Lake. The trail does not get super close to Mirror Lake, so we had not realized we passed it. The climb to Camp #2 (Trail Camp) is on granite with steps carved into the hard rock. At about 11,000 feet I began to feel the elevation. To be clear, I was breathing hard for the entire trek up the mountain, but this is when I first felt a bit of resistance.
This section is so beautiful. With the rising sun and the climb above the treeline, you could see everything, including the sunrise on Whitney. The couple babbling creeks along the way were idyllic and peaceful. You will reach a ridge and from the top you look down at Consultation Lake.
Past this ridge, you walk through Camp #2 (Trail Camp). It is rocky and breezy up here and you will know that you have gone 6 miles and are at 12,000 feet. It is wonderful to know that you are well over halfway to the top. The walk through camp is on flat ground, a welcome relief before tackling the 99 switchbacks. Friendly reminder to take a break to eat and drink water at camp.
CAMP #2 (TRAIL CAMP) TO TRAIL CREST
While at Camp #2, it is hard to tell where the trail heads. From below, the rocks disguise the trail almost completely. Do not worry though, it is very clear in person and with others leading the way. Pretty much immediately, you begin to climb the 99 switchbacks.
I don’t know if there are exactly 99, but there are far more switchbacks than I would count. In general, this is the most hated part of the Mt. Whitney day hike. It’s true that there are only slight changes in the view with each turn, but for me, the switchbacks were not terrible. The switchbacks were dirt with some granite sections and created a gentle, consistent incline. I went into a meditative state and focused on my breathing in conjunction with each step. I didn’t worry about anything else, try to count the switchbacks, or think about much at all. However, I made brief conversations with people along the way and asked everyone about the weather.
Before I knew it, Trail Crest was in sight! Trail Crest is aptly named because it is where the trail passes over the ridge and you climb the backside of Whitney to the peak. We took a long break on Trail Crest to recover, eat a meal, and chat with the other hikers. Everyone’s stories were fascinating and we talked to many people who have done the hike before. We had made it to 13,600 feet with only 1,000 more feet of elevation gain and about 2 more miles.
Trail Crest to the Peak
We arrived to Trail Crest at 9 am and did a weather check. There were some clouds, but they did not look scary and it the wind was still. We decided to continue. This “backside” of the Whitney trail was wild and beautiful. Once you pass Trail Crest, you are looking toward Sequoia National Park with beautiful snow capped mountain peaks. This is different from the desert valley on the eastern side. Looking down, there are a few beautiful lakes far below.
Although only 1,000 feet of elevation gain, this section was especially tough due to elevation. It was also far rockier with steep drop-offs. Each step was much harder than the earlier sections. Some of the rocky areas were frightening in their stark beauty and steep cliffs. Then the trail widens out on a slope that is not so steep and traverses behind the two iconic spires that sit next to Whitney. Take a moment to view each direction in the spires windows.
After Trail Crest, you can see the little hut that is at the top of Whitney. This is super exciting, but as you get past the spires, you lose sight of the hut. The trail loops away from the peak in a large switchback shape. We accidentally took a super steep shortcut. I don’t recommend taking unofficial trails because it was extra exhausting and erodes the environment. But the top of the hut came back into view and we were almost there!
The Peak
High elevation elation is what I felt. I could and simultaneously couldn’t believe we made it. We signed the log book on the hut with shaky hands and made our way over to the true peak. A few people congratulated us. Some people had passed us during one of the sections. Others were overnight campers we met the day before on the Lone Pine Lake hike, where we told them we were doing the day hike. They seemed happy, yet a bit surprised we made it.
Some hikers were taking pictures with a wooden sign, which had the elevation on it. We took our turn with the sign. We were lucky because shortly after our pictures, a ranger came by and threw the sign into a locked part of the hut. When we asked why, he said it was trash and how the rangers have to take these items down. I understand his point, but am also super happy we got our pictures! Haha!
We took our sweet time at the top. We cheered other hikers to peak, congratulated the friends we made on the trail, and soaked in the moment. We ate another meal and rehydrated. This all took about an hour. Maybe we spent a little too long at the top, which added to our overall time, but I am glad we did. Leaving also took a while, we cheered on anyone who was struggling (not those who were in pain) and took more pictures.
The Entire Return Trip
On the way down, we answered peoples questions and offered words of encouragement all the way back to Trail Crest. This section flew by as we were still giddy from reaching the peak. The 99 switchbacks were also quick. We stopped along the switchbacks at a natural spring to filter water. With more than 5 liters of liquid each, we both had run out. I told you we stayed hydrated.
Most people hate the 99 switchbacks, I hated the second half of the way down. After Camp #2 (Trail Camp), the elation began to wear off and the weariness began to sink in with hard granite beneath our feet. I was breathing fine and not sweating, but my muscles were beat. Kelly and I chatted the entire way down, keeping things positive. Both of us would much rather laugh than cry at our tired bodies. We tried to take in the beautiful scenes, especially the ones we didn’t see in the dark.
We began to get extra loopy on the final 3 miles. We were familiar with the trail after Lone Pine Lake and tried not to think about anything by walking. Each step was getting to be painful, so our jokes and stories became even more ridiculous. I also blame the increased oxygen. In the lush switchbacks about one or two miles from the trailhead, we saw an entire family of deer. It was darling until they approached us for snacks. They disappeared into the brush and we made it back to the car.
Aftermath
Surprisingly, after a shower, foam rolling, and a real meal, we were almost back to normal. It was a blast to share our different experiences throughout the day with two other friends who had made a summit attempt. The next morning, we made ourselves a luxurious giant breakfast before heading out. Tired, but not in any rush, we slowly made our way back to Santa Barbara.
In terms of my body, I was stiff and a bit sore, but still able to walk okay. I got a few more small blisters in unexpected locations – my toes. The tiredness took a couple days to recover from, but not too bad! I was very surprised I was not more wrecked. My only guess is that the training schedule worked it’s magic. Hiking is by far the best prep to do the Mt. Whitney Day Hike.
Overall Thoughts on the Mt. Whitney Day Hike
The Mt. Whitney Day Hike is one of those things that I never thought I would accomplish. When starting the endeavor, I could only hike 10 miles in a day. There is a sense of pride in reaching the summit. If you are considering doing the Mt. Whitney Day Hike, then I believe in you! It was incredible and something everyone should experience. There were a few things that blew me away during the hike:
- How beautiful it would be to hike from 3:15 am on the trail
- The sense of comradery and kindness of other hikers
- How the human body is able to adapt and increase fitness
I hope to be at the top of Whitney again in the future. Perhaps as part of the John Muir trail. Or if I was going to camp, I would like to stay at Camp #2 (Trail Camp) on day one. Then watch the sunrise over Whitney. How lovely would that be?
What summits have you trained for and accomplished? I would love to hear about them for future planning!
Happy Travels,
Hanna
Hanna, Your story was informative and helpful. I appreciate your words of encouragement. I have bagged only a few summits favorite of these would be Mt. Washburn (Yellowstone NP), Mt Champlain (Acadia NP), and Hawk’s Bill (Shenandoah). Mt. Whitney is on my near future bucket list. Again, great storytelling about what to expect, how to train and overall enjoy the experience.
Hi there, thanks for the comment! Those all sound like great hikes. I’ve always wanted to go to Yellowstone, so I’ll keep Mt. Washburn in mind. Are you going to try for a Whitney permit? The permit application period opens up soon! We are not getting as much snow this year, but I would still say August/September would be better to avoid it completely. However, that is when there are thunderstorms, so plan accordingly. Exciting! Keep in touch about what other summits you find really amazing, so I can check them out.
– Hanna
Hi! Your story made me teary! I am you! I can do 10 miles day hikes no problem. I’m signed up for two day Mt Whitney in early August. I’m scared!!!! But I am going to try! Doing so much research to prepare myself!
Hi Lilian, if you are me, then you TOTALLY got this! Keep training – specifically doing training hikes and increasing mileage. The 22-mile route is not technical, so it’s just the elevation and mental toughness of doing such a long hike. And training hikes will help with both! Keep an eye on the the weather (read reports leading up to the hike), go at the speed that is right for you, and make good decisions (gear, food, water, etc.) and you’ll be just fine. I’m proud of you for signing up, training, and doing research. That’s half of it right there.
Sending you warm wishes and let me know how it goes!
Hanna