Washington – The Enchantments Backpacking and Permits
The Enchantments is an alpine wonderland with lakes, granite peaks, and a sprinkle of magic. Located in Washington, you can backpack into this basin, where you can discover crystal clear lake after crystal clear lake. Due to its beauty, the Enchantments exploded in popularity in recent years. Figuring out where you’re going to camp and getting a permit will be your biggest hurdle, in addition to training for the hike. In this post, I’ll break down the different permit and Enchantment backpacking options, the experience of group camping, and the essential gear recommendations for you to feel prepared when you camp in the Enchantments.
In this post, I will focus on permits and backpacking. Check out my other post about the actual hike, training, and the lakes in my other blog post.
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Getting a Coveted Enchantments Backpacking Permit
It is mandatory to get a permit to overnight camp in the Enchantments between May 15 and October 31. There will be rangers who check anyone with a backpacking backpack. To obtain a permit for Enchantments backpacking, you need to apply to a lottery on Recreation.gov, which is open February 15 – March 1 each year. What makes applying for a permit complicated is the different available zones. If you are looking to explore the cascading granite basin of magic, you will need to focus on three zones: Colchuck, Core Enchantments, and Snow.
To better understand the different zones, I recommend reading through the extensive information on the Forest Service Website. I pulled the statistics about how many people applied in 2019 within the Forest Service website’s following information.
Three Zones
Within these three zones, there are slightly different permitting rules:
- Core Enchantments: In a perfect world, you can get the Core Enchantments backpacking permit. This permit will allow you to camp in any zone, including the Upper Enchantments’ incredible lakes. That catch is that there are only 24 individual permits available per day. In 2019, between 300 and 400 people applied per day for these individual permits. This means you have a 6 – 8% chance of actually getting a permit. And possibly less, now that more people are applying. It’s not impossible. I met people in the Core as nice as can be and felt like they won the lottery.
- Colchuck Zone: The Core Enchantments is sandwiched by two zones that allow GROUP permits. Three group permits per day can include up to eight people. Colchuck lake alone is quite stunning and a popular day hike destination for people in Washington. From Colchuck, you can hike into the Core Enchantments, which sounds great until you hear about Asgard Pass. The Asgard Pass is a 1,900 ft ascent over one mile. If you decide to explore the Core Enchantments, you’ll need to hike up and down the pass during the day.
- Snow Zone: On the other side of the Core Enchantments is the Snow Zone that allows five groups per day. This is where my group and I ended up camping. We camped next to the upper Snow Lake with a beautiful mountain backdrop. To get to the Snow Lakes, it still takes 4,400 ft of elevation gain over 8 – 10 miles. Then more elevation to get into the Core Enchantments. Although easier than the Asgard Pass, I still found this final ascent challenging. I will get more into this later.
A Second Chance at Permits
The best way to get an Enchantments backpacking permit is to apply to the original lottery on Recreation.gov. However, there are secondary options to getting a permit. The way we got our permit is actually through the unclaimed permits. Lottery winners have a set amount of time to claim their overnight permits. On April 1st each year, Recreation.gov releases any that were not claimed. On the release day, you must log in early and ready to go when they release the permits, as they will be gone in an instant. Since we already knew the group’s ideal dates from our initial application, we could easily select the dates. This was for a group permit. I did not look at the Core Enchantments unclaimed permits for individuals, so I cannot tell you if they were available.
And the final way to get a permit for the Enchantments is via a small number of walk-up permits available through the Forest Service. This option was not available in 2020 and likely unavailable in 2021. Check the Forest Service website for updates.
Enchantments Backpacking in the Snow Zone
Now that we’ve covered the permit process, here’s what it’s like to camp in the Enchantments’ Snow Zone. First off, when hiking with your backpacking backpack, it’s good to know that the hike itself is relentlessly uphill. I found it to be a beautiful hike, but yes, entirely uphill. I go in-depth about the hike itself in my Enchantments Hiking and Lakes blogpost. Within the Snow Zone, there are three areas to camp: Nada Lake, Lower Snow Lake, Upper Snow Lake.
Upper Snow Lake
If you’re planning to head into the Enchantments the morning after camping, I recommend camping at Upper Snow Lake. This is where we camped for two nights (the third night, we went down to Nada Lake). Upper Snow Lake has a stunning granite peak backdrop, making it a beautiful camping spot in and of itself – not just as a way to get into the Enchantments.
There are only a handful of group spots. When we arrived, the group spots were pretty much filled up. Luckily, right when we reached the end of the Lake, we ran into some rangers who checked our permits. The rangers let us know two key details: (1) a friendly bear was in the area, and (2) if there were no group spots, we could camp on one of the sandy beaches that wash out each year. We camped on the beach for one night and moved into a nearby group spot that opened up the next morning.
Kind of like my Camping at Havasupai blog post, it’s a good thing to keep in mind that your first choice isn’t your final choice if you are camping for more than one night. If you get a “not so great” spot the first night, you can move in the morning. Since it is a popular destination, move in the morning before the new batch of backpackers comes in.
Lower Snow Lake
Lower Snow Lake is immediately adjacent to Upper Snow Lake. We walked by part of it but did not stop to take in the scenery. The Rangers mentioned that the spots at Lower Snow Lake do not tend to fill up, so if you are coming into camp late, this might be a better bet. Or if you’re looking for a more peaceful night, this might also be better. Because the Enchantments are popular, the main trail gets a ton of foot traffic throughout the day – basically from sunrise to sunset. Most of the group sites at Upper Snow Lake are near the trail.
Nada Lake
And the third spot to camp in the Snow Zone is at Nada Lake. This is about 2-miles from the Upper Snow Lake toward the trailhead and away from the Core Enchantments. We ended up camping at Nada Lake for our third night, and let me tell you, it was the best night of sleep. Being at a lower elevation and away from the Core Enchantments, it was warmer and more peaceful. It’s also another stunning lake and a worthy place to camp in its own right. There is a massive peak in the background with calm waters and protection from the wind. If you have permits for the Core Enchantments, this would be a great spot to camp if you want to break up your hike out.
On our hike, we saw a man and his son fishing in Nada Lake. It seemed crazy that he would choose to camp here when the Core Enchantments was so close. Fast forward two nights, and I was a happy clam at the peaceful little lake surrounded by the high mountain peaks and trees. We, humans, go into nature for different reasons.
Other Considerations
Bear Bag Debacle
Our biggest challenge beyond the hike itself and getting permits was securing our food from bears and woodland creatures. The Forest Service requires you to secure your food, and the rangers told us about the bear in the area. They described the bear as somewhat friendly but looking for snacks. There are two ways to secure your food: using a bear canister or hanging your fragrant items in a tree. Our group opted for hanging the bags in a tree over the bulky/heavy bear canister. However, hanging the bear bag was comically difficult.
The issue we ran into was finding a tree with a wide enough branch that would allow the bags to hang high enough off the ground that a bear would not be able to reach it. Most of the trees surrounding our beach camp spot were tall and very narrow. There were an ideal couple of branches on a dead tree, but the branch was waaaayyyy up there. It took us close to an hour of tying rocks to the end of our rope and catapulting them in the exact spot over a branch before finally getting two ropes up. I know that I would not have reached that branch on my own and would have had to find another tree deep in the woods. This experience, albeit hilarious, has me seriously considering purchasing a bear canister.
Leave bear canister recommendations in the comments!
The Cold
The other challenging aspect of this backpacking trip was the cold while sleeping. Although I had read the weather before leaving, that first night was a shocker. As soon as the sun drops below the mountains, the temperature does too. At Upper Snow Lake, you will want to prepare for wind. On the beach the first night, we were more exposed to this wind. The second night felt a little warmer with the protection of the trees.
If you’re like me and tend to be cold while sleeping, I recommend bringing a sleeping bag liner and fleece sleeping cap. I did not have the liner and could feel the cold seeping into where the zipper was located. I slept in my beanie, but because of the ball on top, I couldn’t quite cuddle into my bag all the way.
Bugs
We brought bug nets and spray to the Enchantments but barely used them. The most amount of bugs encountered were in the evenings. I used my bug net once and was never bit. I am not sure if this was because it was late August, and it was starting to get colder, but I recommend reading up on other websites, so you prepare accordingly.
Bathrooms in the Enchantments
Surprisingly there are pit toilets dotted throughout the Enchantments and near the campgrounds. Attached to trees, little wooden signs mark where to find the toilets. Seems easy enough, right? Well, they are not exactly near the initial sign. Instead, you will follow a trail deep into a wooded area away from any running water or lakes. This is great for privacy since it simply a wooden box with a hole and a lid. But it can be challenging to find in the dark, dusk, or dawn. If you are an early riser, I recommend locating the toilet before sunset the night before.
Gear Recommendations for Backpacking the Enchantmentments
Here are the most critical things for Enchantments backpacking and hiking with a couple of recommended products, but I recommend that you research gear reviews, especially with the high price point items.
Backpacking & Hiking items:
- Download a map or the Alltrails Map in advance.
- Backpack – Deuter or Osprey both have good options.
- Tent – Nemo Hornet 2p or the super light Zpacks Tents.
- Sleeping bag – Therm-a-Rest Parsec 20 for down, Marmot Eco 20 for eco-fill, or maybe you only need a quilt.
- (Read my review of the Therm-a-rest Parsec 20 sleeping bag here.)
- Sleeping pad – Therm-A-Rest Lite for a blow-up version or a Therm-A-Rest foam pad to save your breath.
- (Read my review of the Therm-a-rest NeoAir XTherm Sleeping Pad here.)
- Sleeping bag liner – I didn’t have one, but I sure wish I did! If you’re a cold sleeper or don’t like how the sleeping bag feels, then a sleeping bag liner will be a game changer. For warmth, I invested in the Sea-to-Summit Thermolite Reactor.
- Hiking boots – For boots, consider the Keen Targhee II for something similar to what I’m wearing in the photos, the Columbia Newton Ridge for something cute and slightly less expensive, or the Salomon Trail Sense 4 for more flexibility and lower profile while still having a ton of grip.
- Hiking poles – I don’t have an opinion on hiking poles yet, but if you’re looking for reasonably priced ones, check the REI Co-op. I just discovered these folding ones (are they new??), which would be cool to pop in your bag and use when you need them.
- Headlamp – Black Diamond is the classic brand that I’m familiar with and the Spot 400 is a solid choice. Make sure you choose one that had the red light! The Petzl Actik Core has a rechargeable battery – very cool! It also gets very good reviews.
- Fleece beanie cap for sleeping – the puffball on my beanie prevented me from snuggling into my sleeping bag fully!
For your Days of Exploration:
- Day pack – pick something ultra light, and packable so that you don’t have to carry your backpacking backpack around with you. I used something like this packable backpack from Amazon.
- Sunscreen – I use this sunscreen for my face, and this one for my body.
- Backup phone battery – I need a new backup battery, I am looking at these – it seems like a good value
- Hat for shade
Food-related items: (no fires allowed)
- Bear Canister – As I mentioned in the previous section, hanging a bear bag was comical. Since I was in a group, we hung an Ursack Bear Bag. I have since bought the Bear Vault Canister.
- Stove – Jetboils are fast, and convenient but bulky… consider a pocket stove with a pot that is around 900ml or 1.2l.
- Coffee – You can use these handy pop-up pour-over packs or bring coffee grounds and a filter.
- Mug – I don’t trust plastic with boiling water, so here is something cheap, and here is something titanium, and here is something cute.
- Meals and snacks! My favorite meals right now are the Backpacker’s Pantry Thai Veggie and Mushroom Stroganoff! Or shop backpacker’s pantry on Amazon.
- Water filter – I brought a sawyer filter that didn’t work very well (I probably didn’t clean it properly), but luckily someone in the group brought the Platypus Gravity Flow which we all shared! WOW, that was a game changer and made water filtering fun and effortless. I do think the best use is in a group (or even just two people).
- So many snacks
Overall Thoughts: Enchantments Backpacking
I see why the National Forest instituted a permit system for Enchantments backpacking with this destination’s popularity. Even with strict enforcement, the trail felt busy with limited camping. Similar to my Havasupai Camping experience, these popular destinations are not the peaceful retreat to nature that you might expect. However, knowing this, you can mentally prepare or choose another trail. The Enchantments are a stunning destination but will not be worthwhile if you cannot focus on the experience.
The best-case scenario is getting permits for the Core Enchantments. I think this would be ideal to fully explore and enjoy the different lakes that the Core Enchantments offers. However, getting a group together and camping at Colchuck or Snow Lakes is a great option with beautiful scenery. When planning it out, we chose to go for three nights. This might be too much for you. Read through my “Enchantments hike and lakes” blog post for more information on the hike itself. If you want to go with a group and only want to try heading into the Core Enchantments one day, two nights might be a better option.
Have you gone to the Enchantments? If so, which zone and where did you camp at? I’m curious to hear what your experience was like depending on the campsite! Let me and other travelers know by leaving a comment.
Happy Travels,
Hanna
