Norway – Borgund Stave Church


The deep black color, steep pitched roof, and decorative dragons heads give the Borgund Stave church a exotic look with a Medieval feel.

If you do some driving around Norway, you’ll eventually see a stave church. Although minimal in their interior decoration, you should definitely stop by one to witness the architectural engineering of the medieval times and how Christians incorporated Norse symbolism in the design. We visited the Borgund Stave Church, but even if you visit different stave churches, read through this post to see if the structure and symbolism are also present in the church you visit.

Built around 1180, this church in Borgund one of only 28 remaining timber churches in the country. The museum is thorough and the church is well-preserved, so it is definitely worth a stop if you Norwegian history interests you. I also HIGHLY recommend picking up a few apples at one of the idyllic apple farms on the scenic drive from Laerdal – more on that in a bit.

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Borgund Stave Church

Before heading into the church, you must first go through the visitor’s center and museum. This is where you pay your entrance fee. I have to admit that I am not used to paying to get into a church, but later I realized I was actually paying for the Museum, maintenance, and staffing of the church. The Museum has detailed explanations of the symbolism you see on the church and history of the area. We kind of skimmed through the museum as we wanted to visit the church while it was empty.

A cemetery surrounds the church, which stands quite tall in a valley surrounded by steep mountains. It feels very imposing until you get up close with the church. Once you are standing next to it, it seems more narrow than before, with the roof coming down to my eye level. There is an external gallery that surrounds the building with decorative columns. The interior of the building felt even smaller, but was difficult to tell because it was so dark inside! I recommend taking your time inside to let your eyes adjust and find some details, then walk around the external gallery of the building, and check out the gravesites.

At a Glance:

  • Rating: 3 (out of 4) stars – great stave church, would want to visit more in the county
  • Intensity: Warm layers as even the interior of the church is chilly
  • Location: 20 mins away from Laerdal, Norway
  • Cost: 90 NOK per person
  • Restrooms: Very nice bathrooms inside the Museum building
  • Timing: 1 hour

Highlights:

  • Engage with one of the best-preserved stave church in Norway
  • Discuss the transition from the Norse Gods to Christianity with a friendly guide
  • Calm waters

Viking + Chrisitan Symbolism

There is a guide available to ask questions. He pointed out the tops of the columns along the walls. At the capitals, where the columns reach the roof there is a small face on each. The faces represent different figures in Norse Mythology, including Odin. The small Odin face even had a crack through the right eye, so historians are fairly certain that this is indeed Odin and not a figure from Christianity. If like me, you are unfamiliar with Norse Mythology, you’ll likely remember from the Marvel movies that Thor’s father Odin is missing an eye – so fascinating.

The fact that there is Norse symbolism in the early churches likely had to with the fact that original missionaries needed to bridge the gap between what locals believed and Christianity. Another example of this is the decorative tree on the sides of the upper stave levels. Our guide didn’t have an exact answer to what it could be referring to but believed that trees and images of trees were highly important to the locals.

Fun Facts about the Borgund Stave Church

While visiting, there were only two other guests wandering the building at the same time as us. For that reason, we began asking the guide questions about the church. He excitedly told us some fascinating elements and even went back into the building to show us some things with a flashlight. Here are some fun things I learned.

  • The black color of the church comes from the exterior layer of tar that coats the entire building. The tar helps protect the timber from the environmental elements, allowing it to survive to this day. It also makes the building extremely flammable. How it has survived is mindblowing to me.
  • The church was built on top of a stone foundation. It is because of this stone foundation that the wood does not rot – it is not in contact with the earth.
  • Locals used to bury people underneath the church but had to stop the practice due to the smell. However, even after the church banned the practice, people still dug out areas next to the church and shoved in the small coffins of babies who died before or after childbirth next to the church. It is not easy to find these, but because it was so quiet, a guide showed us a couple of visible coffins (he moved a few rocks and we had to get down on our knees to see them with a flashlight).
  • There are small holes on one of the upper staves. In winter, when it was particularly cold, the church or patrons would cover the holes with pigs’ skin to help keep in the heat, while still letting in light.
  • Everyone attending mass would stand with women on one side of the building and men on the other. There were a couple of benches available for the sick or elderly.
  • There is a rectangular opening near the apse of the building, where unwanted/sick people could stand either in the external gallery or outside the building and still hear and possibly see the mass take place.
  • The external gallery surrounding the building was likely multi-functional. Not only does it protect the building against the harsh elements, but it was also a place for patrons to place their weapons before entering. No weapons in church!
  • Getting to Church and APPLES

We were staying in Laerdal and had a private car, so getting to Borgund was a scenic 20-minute drive. Along this drive, you’ll see waterfalls, sheep in fields with steep mountains surrounding the valley, and apple farms. There are a couple of apple stands that operate on the honor system. If you are visiting in September and October, you MUST stop at one of these apple stands and buy some apples. I didn’t know what to expect with the enormous beautiful apples that we picked up, but when I bit into it, it was bursting with flavor! It was the sweetest and tart apple I’ve ever tasted. The flavor might have been enhanced by the incredible view of the valley with clouds and green grass.

Alternatively, you can take a bus from Laerdal and see these sights :).

Overall Thoughts: Borgund Stave Church

Sure, I’ve visited many historic churches in Europe, but the Borgund Stave Church was particularly fascinating for its mix of symbolism to transition the local beliefs toward Christianity. Making it all the way from Medieval times, this timber church also gives insights into how the Norwegians would have lived back in the day. It could not have been easy. I highly recommend visiting at least one stave church during your visit to Norway.

Other things to do in the Sognefjord Area:

What’s your favorite story from Norse mythology or Viking history? I know so little about it, but would like to begin dipping in. Let me know in the comments so I can get further into it.

Happy Travels,

Hanna

Hanna looking down while standing next to the imposing Borgund Stave Church in Norway. It is impressively tall with decorative details on the top and dragon's heads and dark color from the tar give it a rich exotic feel. Text on the image reads, "Borgund Stave Church in Norway, Sognefjord Region near Laerdal" Moderately Adventurous Travel
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The deep black color, steep pitched roof, and decorative dragons heads give the Borgund Stave church a exotic look with a Medieval feel. Text on the image reads, "Stave Churchs of Norway, Borgund Stave Church near Sognefjord" Moderately Adventurous Travel
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