Peru – Salkantay Trek to Machu Picchu
Machu Picchu sits deep in the Peruvian mountains. Instead of making a beeline to the site, consider alternative methods to round out your experience. The Inca Trail is a famous route that will allow you to reach Machu Picchu through the Sun Gate. There are also other routes, including the Salkantay Trek to Machu Picchu, which we took with Peru by Locals. We opted for the 5-day, 4-night option, which was challenging, but without a doubt worth every penny.
The Salkantay Trek leads you over a high elevation pass next to Salkantay peak, through lush jungles and small towns, and ends up at Aguas Caliente. It was a perspective-shifting experience that I am so thankful to have done. In this post, I will give a breakdown of the days and what you will see. In my other posts, I will go in-depth on packing and prep, a conditioning hike to Humantay Lake, Machu Picchu at sunrise, hiking to the Sun Gate, and eating vegan and vegetarian in Peru. I will link to these posts as soon as they come out!
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Day 0: Adjustment and Meeting
Perhaps you should arrive to Cusco on day -1! Haha, we arrived the day before the tour was about to begin, which was challenging with the elevation. The elevation of Cusco is around 11,000 ft. This is a drastic change for anyone living at a normal elevation. You will find out later Machu Picchu is lower – around 7,000 ft! Cusco is a high elevation mountain town with a picturesque downtown and buildings creeping up the sides of the mountains surrounding the area. It is a large town with plenty to see and shop for, so arriving two nights (or more) before your tour begins would be ideal.
The night before our tour, the owner (Luis) of Peru by Locals met up with us to give us a run-down of the trek. Luckily, we had asked our questions via email before we arrived, so nothing he said came as a surprise to us. He asked questions to ensure that we had all the gear we needed and how we were feeling. We were also able to confirm our diet and any items we were renting from the company (hiking poles and a sleeping bag for me). The meeting was about an hour long and helped us get on the same page in terms of how prepared and physically ready we were for the trek.
At a Glance:
- Rating: 4 (out of 4) stars, loved it!
- Length: 5-day, 4-night hiking tour
- Location: Peruvian countryside as you make your way to Machu Picchu
- Restrooms: Some on the locations you camp will have a bathroom, some will not.
Highlights:
- Incredible views of high elevation lakes and mountains.
- Conquer a mountain pass, which is at 14,000 feet.
- Meet locals growing bananas and passionfruit at an elevation of 10,000 feet and above.
- Donkeys, mules, and horses carry your gear, so you do not have to lug around everything.
- The cooks were darling and made delicious vegan and vegetarian food for all of us.
- Coffee tour!
- You can go at your own pace with a guide who will ensure you do not get lost and tell you all about the flora and fauna along the way.
Lowlights:
- It was not easy to hike at this elevation for multiple days. Although we did not feel the effects of the elevation when we arrived, Hanna was not feeling 100% on day 3, while it hit Rebecca on days 4 and 5.
Day 1: Salkantay Trek to Machu Picchu Begins
The first day began at 5:30 in the morning. The sun was about to rise, and we loaded into the van with much excitement. We were in the van for about 2 hours when we stopped for so much – needed coffee and breakfast (not included in the price). The breakfast was at a very casual small-town restaurant and had a store to buy water for the day. The entire Salkantay Trek to Machu Picchu was at a relaxed pace, which is true for the rest of the trek. Try to slow down and enjoy the trek, rather than racing through it. Each day, you have the entire day to reach the next destination.
Conditioning Hike to Humantay Lake
After another 2 hours of driving at a steep incline into the mountains, the van stopped at a beautiful grassy canyon. We then engaged in a conditioning hike to Humantay Lake. I’ve written a separate, in-depth post about the hike and beautiful lake here.
While we hiked, the cooks and muleteer had set up a cooking tent and dining tent for lunch. The dining tent was precious with table cloth and cups set out. Within a few moments of us sitting down, the cooks begin to bring us dish after dish of delicious vegan yummies. He would even carve little animals into the fruits and vegetables. This is when we discover how mind-blowing the produce in Peru is… and how the elevation will make you ravenous. Everything was flavorful and served family style. I was blissed out.
Hiking to Camp 1
After a restful lunch, we began our trek to camp. This involves heading straight for Salkantay peak. I think the views from Humantay Lake and the hike to the first camp were my favorite of the entire trek, so take a million or so pictures! You will see grassy hillsides, babbling brooks, steep rock faces, and the ever-looming snow covered peak of Salkantay. It is a challenging due to the 1,000 ft elevation gain.
Camp was in a grassy field before the last push over the pass. Our cooks and muleteer passed us somewhere along the way, so by the time we arrived, our tent was already setup with gear set inside. There was also a small, vertical tent set away from the other, which was the bathroom tent. It was surprisingly easy to do our business here – I blame the elevation. After refreshing ourselves, it was dinner time.
One thing to note about this first camp is that it was freezing cold here! Even in the dining tent with layers on we were shivering from the cold. Bring layers! The dinner was a mouth-watering assortment of vegan dishes. Plus, teas to drink and a sweet treat at the end. The biggest surprise came when one cook came in with two hot water bottles for us to have for the night. As soon as they touched our hands, we zipped them into our jackets for warmth. During the very cold night, we snuggled our hot water bottles, but had trouble sleeping due to the elevation and passing cattle.
Day 2: The Longggg Downhill
We woke to coca tea and warm water to wash our faces. Although groggy, we felt excited for what we were going to see today. Breakfast was another overwhelming amount of food, which I devoured! I am not even a big breakfast eater, but everything tasted amazing. The cooks and muleteer took care of all the gear while we began the last push up over the pass.
Each step of getting to the pass took heavy breathing and many mini breaks to catch our “leg breath” and regular breath. It was not easy, but at least we had the breakfast energy to help us. The top of the pass was rocky and barren. There were many stacks of rocks, which our guide explained were in honor of Salkantay Pass. We made our own stack and attempted to see a lake, but were unable to see the lake through the clouds formed at the pass. After our mist adventure, we began the long descent in a partial mist, partial drizzle.
Pack This for a Hike in Peru!
Downhill we go
The views were of remarkable green grass valleys, but we could only see part of them due to the clouds and rain. Although I had a rain jacket, I opted to dawn my poncho. Together, Rebecca and I looked like little poncho fairies. Although silly, those pochos kept us dry and saved our butts. The downhill was very tough on my knees. The roughest part is near the top of the pass on uneven rocky steep sections. We had hiking poles, but it was at this moment I wished I would have done more training hikes. After a while, the steepness does reduce and the texture of the path changes, but it was only the first half of a long, challenging day.
After a few flat expanses, more and more vegetation appeared. Without us realizing it, we are back in what feels like a jungle. The rain cleared, and the path warmed up. Rebecca and I did the most amount of changes this day (adding a jacket, adding a poncho, removing both, removing sweater, adding sweater, etc.) as the landscape changed around us.
After what felt like an eternity, we pulled over to a grassy spot for lunch. The cleared grassy area looked terraced. Our guide tells us this area was an Inca site. It was also during this lunch that things got uncomfortable with our guide. I will discuss this below in the “Our Guide” section. We were all worn out from the long haul in the morning. The cooks were darling and the food and hike were incredible, so we tried to focus on that.
GUESS WHAT, MORE DOWNHILL TO CAMP
The afternoon jungle hike was still delightful. There were beautiful jungle views (when you could see them through the trees) with waterfalls cascading over the cliffs in the distance. We covered the most ground in the morning and only did a few more miles in the afternoon. This was good call on the company’s part. During this part, we would see locals pass us with large sacks on their backs. Oftentimes they were badass tiny women who charged up the hills. It was eye-opening to see these women in action.
Our second camp was in a very small town. Our tents were on a grassy flat area behind a building. Although a bit strange, we were happy to have access to a real toilet this time. I think the cooks were also happy to have a real kitchen to cook in. We ate dinner on a deck above the house. This time, the cooks made meat for our guide, the muleteer, and himself. Not an issue for us, because we had so many other dishes to choose from.
At this location, there was a tiny kitty cat that we loved and adored. The kitty would try to catch bugs as we ate dinner. This location felt tropical and warm with the potential for mosquitos. Such a drastic change from our first camp! The cook saw how happy the hot water bottles made us the first night, so he brought them out for us again. We took them with glee, even though it wasn’t that cold. We both slept much better at this location.
DAY 3: RIVER VIEWS IN THE CANYON
After another hearty breakfast including pancakes, a Peruvian-style oatmeal, toast, and more, we discussed the day. Because we were hiking at the end of the rainy season and before the peak season began, the rain washed out a few bridges. Our guide told us that all the tour companies pitch in to fix the bridges. This is nice thought that they give back to the communities that their patrons pass through. Instead of taking a trail, we would be walking on the road down to our next camp. Because there is a road from this point, we said goodbye to our muleteer, donkeys, and horse.
Although the road was higher than the trail and perhaps a bit less picturesque, I could not be happier to take the road. I started feeling a bit off this day and enjoyed the easiness of the steady, solid, decline of the road. On the road, one side was gorgeous ravine down to a dark blue river with views of the mountain on the other side. We could see farms spotted throughout the mountain with crops growing on vertical slopes. The weather was tropical, and the farmers were growing corn, passion fruit and other crops while we are still over 10,000 feet. Everything about these farmers surprised and impressed me in how hearty, resourceful, and hardworking they must be to make a living. So amazing.
CAMPING AT THE COFFEE PLANTATION
Even though I was not feeling 100%, we made it all the way down to our camp before lunch. Our camp was at a coffee plantation and our tents were in the spacious front yard. The coffee plantation has a few other buildings they rent out as an Airbnb or bed and breakfast. The owners were so kind and allowed us to shower in one of the rooms. Even though the shower was freezing, it felt amazing to shed a layer of grime that I had been building up. I don’t think they would offer their shower if the group was very big or during the main season.
At this point I was feeling feverish,which hit at a good point in the hike because we had the afternoon to chill and nap. My theory is that I was not virus sick, but my body was tired because after my nap and a good night’s sleep, I was feeling far better the next morning. If you are not feeling great, check in with yourself and take it easy. I had an assortment of aspirin, rehydration tablets and packets, and vitamin c packets in my bag, which helped with a speedy recovery. If you know your body might react a certain way at high elevations or under stress, bring the materials to help yourself out. I am so glad I over-prepared in this area because it came in handy.
DAY 4: COFFEE TOUR AND GETTING TO AGUAS CALIENTE
Before day 4 began, we woke up extra early to have a coffee tour with the plantation owner, Freddy. Freddy was as charismatic as they come, and we helped with entire process of coffee making from picking, washing, drying, roasting, and drinking. We took a coffee tour in Costa Rica, but I still loved hearing what causes the coffee to taste different in Peru. Namely, I was curious to know in how the elevation affected the beans. We also got to roast our own small batch of coffee (we were not very good at it) and have a strong, but delicious cup of fresh roasted, ground, and brewed. This was a great way to wake up!
After coffee, we have our delicious, monstrous breakfast and discussed the day. Another bridge was out, where we would have crossed another mountain, explored an Inca site, and taken a train to Aguas Caliente. Without the bridge in place, we decided to take a car down to the train station and walk the tracks up to Aguas Caliente. Because I was recovering, and Rebecca began having some stomach issues, this was the best option for us. We were able to drop off one of our cooks at a convenient spot and speed through the valley, which we were walking the entire day prior.
Our other cook took our bags with him on the train, while we walked into Aguas Caliente. There are plenty of people who walk along the tracks, so this was not unusual. The train cannot take steep inclines or declines, so it was a gentle, nice hike. Our guide began preparing us for Machu Picchu and we see a peek of the side terraces way up at the top during a few portions of the walk.
AGUAS CALIENTE
We reached Aguas Caliente in time for a late lunch (not included in the price of the tour). Aguas Caliente was a surprisingly, and yet unsurprisingly developed town. There must be so much tourist money coming through the town. There is a large market in the center of town with all the darling goods you can imagine. For lunch, we discovered a vegetarian place called Govinda Restaurant. We arrived kind of late, but the owner jumped up to serve us whatever we desired. There were a ton of hearty vegan and vegetarian options at this place.
After lunch we met our cook at the train station to grab our bags and we had another couple hours before dinner (included with the tour). Dinner was at Peruvian-Pizza hybrid place and had a few vegetarian options. Our guide let us know the inclusions for dinner. We did not let dinner drag on because we were going to be waking up to be at the train station by 3:45 am.
Day 5: Machu Picchu at Sunrise, Transport to Cusco
Read this in-depth post I wrote about Machu Picchu at sunrise and I will be writing about hiking to the Sun Gate. If you are taking the Inca trail, you will come in through the Sun Gate, but since we took the Salkantay Trek to Machu Picchu we did not, so we took the hike up to experience it.
I also mention in the Machu Picchu at sunrise article how I wish I could have spent even more time at Machu Picchu. Our tour took 4 hours, which was amazing. By the time we finished the tour and hiked to the Sun Gate, visitors overwhelmed the entire place. It was hard to move around. If I visit Machu Picchu again, I would want another day to explore on my own. It would be expensive, but worthwhile.
Our train ticket was for 2 or 3 pm. We headed to the bus at 12:30 pm and caught one around 12:45 or 1:00 pm. We had done our shopping the day before, so we were able to go straight to our hotel room to pack up and head to the train. It was busy at the train station and a little confusing. The trains are on time, so do not be late!
TRANSPORT BACK TO CUSCO
The train ride was delightful. We were in higher end train car (but not the luxury Belmond train), so there was a beverage service and show. The show included a fashion show of Peruvian wool goods and a dancer in costume. I wrote out my postcards on the train, but thoroughly enjoyed the show. The train car we were in had gorgeous large windows, which we got to see the Sacred Valley. This was nice for us, since we did not get to see this on our trek. Our seat mates also had a funny experience with their guide on their trek, so we had a good laugh comparing our travels.
Our train did not go all the way back to Cusco. Instead, it took us to a town about an hour or two outside Cusco. A driver picked us up at the crazy busy train station. Rebecca and I passed out on our drive to Cusco, so I am unclear how long it took. It seemed like our driver was a madman on the road, but perhaps that was my tired brain after a very long day.
When we reached Cusco, we surprise picked up Luis, the owner of the company. He asked us about the trip and we gushed over the views, food, cooks, and Machu Picchu. When he asked about the guide, there was a long pause and we said something short and general. Luis helped bridge the language barrier as we drove to our Airbnb near the city center and helped with our bags when we arrived. It was a very nice touch for him to check in with us after the trek. When I trek again, I would do it with Peru by Locals and ask for Luis to be our guide, even if it cost more.
Day 6: Cusco
I recommend spending a night in Cusco after your trek to get some good sleep and recover. We stayed in this accidentally massive and adorable Airbnb. I wish we could have stayed another night, it was so spacious and nice. It was a brisk night in Cusco, but we had a thick blanket and the best sleep.
We had the entire morning to explore Cusco a little more and we enjoyed popping into tiny shops and seeing the city through refreshed eyes. We sent our postcards and had an incredible vegan breakfast. Before long, it was time to head to the airport.
Our Guide
After so much foreshadowing, I will tell you about our guide. First, Rebecca and I were alone on the trek because it was before the main trekking season. Second, I never felt unsafe or lost, or in danger in any way. For the most part, our guide was professional and easy to be around, especially when we were hiking and at Machu Picchu.
However, there were about three meals where he was insufferable. He interrupted me and told me to be quiet, then put Rebecca on the spot with some obscure question. He would also interrupt us to tell us how our country elected officials. While we were at the coffee plantation, his demeanor changed from interrupting and talking down to us to cheery and charismatic when another (German?) couple began to make and eat dinner next to us. I don’t know if it was because we were both young and female or if there was too large of a cultural barrier to overcome. We did find out Peru by Locals contracted our guide and he normally does day-trips and had a soccer-related injury recently. Because it was early in the season, my best theory is that he was not yet in shape for the trek and tired, like us.
Possible Solutions and Follow-Up
We were there to learn and take in as much as possible and I doubt we would have said anything with malice or to upset him. I can see a couple solutions, including most simply, being in a larger group. With another couple, we all could have spent a little less time together and dispersed the tension. After talking on the girls on the train, who also had some strange interactions, I don’t think there is a perfect solution. We did our best to not let this affect our trip and I loved everyone else that worked with Peru by Locals, I would trek with them again, requesting Luis be our guide. We let Luis know what we felt about our guide about a week after our trek once we could synthesize why we our thoughts.
Overall Thoughts
The Salkantay Trek to Machu Picchu was magnificent! It was striking and an introspective experience that I am beyond grateful to have done with Rebecca. I am not a camper, so it was a challenging experience with its highs and lows, but can you fully appreciate the highs without some lows? In the future, I look forward to taking the Inca Tail through the Sacred Valley, for a change of pace and because I heard there are more llamas on the trail (we only saw them at Machu Picchu and Cusco!).
We felt pampered on the trek, with what felt like a giant staff for just Rebecca and me. It feels a little silly to say how challenging it was, since we didn’t even have to carry our bags and cook for ourselves! But we were in not shape to do it on our own. This was a nice in-between experience with unlimited (and sometimes unwanted – haha) access to a knowledgeable guide and home cooked Peruvian food.
Have you done a multi-day trek with a company before? If so, let us know about it in the comments, because Rebecca and I are eager to go on another!
Happy Travels,
Hanna
