March 6, 2019

Thailand – Exploring Wat Pho in Bangkok

After temple hopping in Chiang Mai as well as going to the White and Blue Temples of Chiang Rai, I was more or less prepared for Wat Pho or Wat Phra Chetuphon. What I did not expect was how spectacular the Reclining Buddha would actually be or how much of a retreat from busy Bangkok it would be inside the temple complex. Speaking of complex, there are a number of buildings and courtyards for you to explore at Wat Pho. Being one of the oldest and largest temples in Bangkok, Wat Pho contains over 1,000 images of the Buddha and over 100 chedis. I recommend dedicating at least one hour to enjoy the complex before moving on to other sights in the city.

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EXPLORING WAT PHO IN BANGKOK

The Reclining Buddha

Far and away the highlight of going to Wat Pho was the 46-meter gold plated Reclining Buddha. The building that the Reclining Buddha is one of the first (if not the very first) buildings you encounter when

entering the complex. Even from outside, you will hear the consistent yet inharmonious clinking (I’ll get to that shortly). You will walk around to one side of the building and on the stairs, take off your shoes to put into a plastic bag. The Reclining Buddha fills the entire temple and reflects a warm light. From what I gather in Buddhism, humans are in the middle of an endless cycle of rebirth, which the only way to end is by reaching enlightenment. The Reclining Buddha is in a state of Nirvana or the end to all reincarnation. With heavy eyelids, I would definitely say that this image of the Buddha is quite relaxed.

The Reclining Buddha is 15 meters tall at its height at the head. Although it is important to appreciate the entire Buddha, take special care to take a look at the Reclining Buddha’s feet, which are inlaid with mother of pearl and 108 auspicious (lucky) characters. You will also see a central point on each foot which represents a chakra, or energy point. As you make your way around the feet, you will find out what has been making that clinking noise – 108 bronze bowls line one side of the temple. 108 bowls are symbolic of the 108 auspicious characters. For a fee, an attendant will give you a bowl of coins to put into each of the bowls. Doing so will bring you good fortune and a donation for the maintenance of the temple.

At a Glance:

Rating: 3 (out of 4) stars, thoroughly enjoyed my visit, but may want to visit a different temple the next time I go to Bangkok
Intensity: Casual clothes covering your shoulders and knees
Location: In the old Rattanakosin area on the East bank of the Chao Phraya river directly south of the Grand Palace
Cost: 200 baht, per person
Restrooms: We found them at the back (?) of the complex
Timing: 45-minutes to 1.5 hours depending on how quickly you move through the complex

Highlights:

Location of the famous Reclining Buddha, which is huge
Beautiful complex with different elements in each courtyard

woman standing near two columns in Wat Pho

The Reclining Buddha Experience

It took me studying abroad in Rome to truly gain an appreciation for sculpture and it hit me again when viewing the Reclining Buddha. The photos do not capture the physical space this giant sculpture takes up. The building feels like it is just big enough to fit the Buddha and there are large poles that interrupt the view of the entire piece, so it is natural to walk around the temple to see the entire thing. It’s so important to view sculpture in person because there is such a physicality to them. You back up to get a better view, you must walk around to see the backside, and when you are standing near the Buddha’s head, it is a good 10 feet above you.

With the vibrant gold, the overall effect overwhelms the small building. Though I do not practice Buddhism, I was in awe and inspired. I can only imagine the reaction of patrons visiting in the 1800s. Then, of course, I loved the interactive element of putting the coins into the bowls for good fortune.

Chedi’s

In a separate courtyard, there are chedis, which are Buddhist Stupas and typically contain relics. In one courtyard (called Phra Maha Chedi Si Rajakarn) are four enormous chedis for the first four Chakri kings with respective colors – Rama I built a green one, Rama II built a white one for his father Rama II and a yellow one for himself, and Rama IV built a blue one, then enclosed all four chedis and without additional space to build more. These enormous chedis reach 42 meters high.

Throughout the Wat Pho, there are several smaller chedi that are about 5 meters in height. 71 of the chedis contain ashes of royal family members. I found it fascinating to walk around and through the chedis in the courtyards and admire the beautiful decoration. Though it is common for churches in western culture to have relics of saints, these outdoor structures feel accessible and celebrated.

Hanna walking through the courtyards at Wat Pho. The doorway between the courtyards or buildings are incredibly ornate with red doors and details above the doorway that almost look like a crown.

The feet of the Buddha has inlaid pearl representing the 108 auspicious characters in Buddhism in Wat Pho

Rebecca standing next to and looking up the giant green chedi at Wat Pho. She is only as tall as the base of the Chedi.

These are the extremely large chedis, which hold the remains of past kings - Rama I, II, III, and IV. Each is decorated in a color theme with flowers and details at every level at Wat Pho in Bangkok, Thailand.

Hanna does a slight curtsy/bow in front of the enormous gold Buddha at the Temple the Reclining Buddha. From this angle, you can see nearly the entire Buddha in comparison to Hanna

The large gold head and arm of the Buddha between two columns at the Temple of the Reclining Buddha in Bangkok, Thailand

Temple kitty! We found a stray cat laying on one of the layers of a smaller chedi in the shade in Wat Pho Bangkok, Thailand.

Hanna walking among some of the smaller decorated chedis. These are the smaller clusters of chedis that hold the relics of royal family members

Other Notable Features of Wat Pho

When walking around the Wat Pho complex, be sure to take the time to look for these items:

The Bodhi Tree: Next to the Reclining Buddha, there is a small garden with a tree in the center. Patrons and practitioners believe this tree to be a descendant of the original bodhi tree, under which Buddha reached enlightenment.
The Ubosot: This building is the main hall, where Buddhist rituals take place and considered the most sacred. It contains the principal image of the Buddha.
Medicine Pavillion: This temple was the first public university in Thailand. Then Wat Pho Thai Traditional Medical and Massage School was established at the temple in 1955. This was the first school of Thai medicine approved by the Thai Ministry of Education, and one of the earliest massage schools. It remains the national headquarters and the center of education of traditional Thai medicine and massage to this day.
Large Chinese Guardian Statues: Find these throughout the complex, the guard some of the interior courtyards and compound, some of which depict Europeans.

Overall Thoughts: Wat Pho, Temple of the Reclining Buddha

My two favorite parts of Wat Pho were the Reclining Buddha and the giant decorated Chedis. Both of which are enormous and difficult to fit into one picture – haha! I found Wat Pho to be quiet, elaborate, and well-taken care of. There is a lot to explore in one hour and even more to take in if you look at some of the smaller pavilions, which have historical teachings and more information on Buddhism. This is the only temple we visited in Bangkok, but it was interesting to compare this temple complex to the ones in Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai. Read those posts here:

Temple hopping in Chiang Mai (with notes on appropriate clothing and actions in a temple)
The Famous White and Blue Temples of Chiang Rai

Should you visit Wat Pho while in Bangkok? If you practice Buddhism or have an interest in the historical significance of the temples of Bangkok, I definitely recommend that you check this out. Or if you are already going to the Royal Palace, it might be worthwhile to walk over and see the reclining Buddha. But if this is just a casual interest, you could dip in and see my favorite parts pretty quickly.

What temples have you been to in Thailand or elsewhere that were absolutely stunning? I am curious to explore more. Let me know in the comments so I can plan a trip!